It's surprisingly amiable and light hearted. Aside from a few sequences the weirdness is more gentle quirk than full blown Lynchian fever dream (though I get the feeling that might change with the movie and season 3).
The soap opera aspect takes up quite a lot of it. At the point I'm at the episodes are increasingly more about just hanging out in Twin Peaks than a focused murder mystery.
In retrospect I can see the influence on a lot of quirky 90's dramas from my youth, like Eerie Indiana and Due South. Even the X Files to an extent.