That’s how the rot set in towing trailers, boats and then caravans of which we are on number 5.
To tow a trailer or caravan you driving licence must have on the back of your driving licence under cat’y 9 and down that list you must have BE.
Now I do not know how you obtain that one as I have had it since 1975 which would be before a lot of licensing changes came about.
Now I am a fanatical about the towing of trailers, boats and caravans. Everything is to be in top line, I do not cut any corners whatsoever.
I personally would not try to tow a caravan that is not near the 85% rule. When mine is loaded it may end up being at 90%. If it’s possibly getting more than that I’m weight hunting.
Caravan is loaded carefully. The greatest danger is tail weight, that can throw you off the road. Diagrams and all info that you require to tow a c/van safely can be found on the Caravan and motorhome plus Camping and Caravan website.
Over the years Caravans have increased in weight and width were 6’ then 6’6” then 7’, 7’ 6” now 8’ but some Hobby are I think wider at 10’ travellers type.
Today’s Caravans vary from basic to luxury.
I have always towed Caravans with the most powerful car that I can afford.
If you go to buy a car or a caravan be very careful. The sales person is trying to make a sale and you can be given bad info.
I have a 2012 Kia Sorento 2.2 diesel, a great tow car and tow a Bailey Unicorn Cadiz.
I would not attempt to tow my C/van with a car less than 2.2 litre. To me there’s nowt like CC’s anything less than 2.0 litre not on unless the C/van is much lighter.
Both my car and caravan get serviced at a main dealerships. Done all the home servicing in the past and was good at it.
However things are now far more technical and I’m getting on.
If Caravanning you need to be a member of one of the 2 clubs or both as we are. We insure our c/van through the Caravan and Motorhome Club and use then for travel insurance.
You must have a proper towbar fitted by a specialist and that includes the electrical system.
Our Bailey has a stability system built in but that will cope with a properly loaded c/van. Overload at your peril.
You have to learn how to tow a caravan and it’s only by getting in the mileage that you can become competent. The clubs have manoeuvring courses.
Some drivers never learn or let’s say never engage brain.
I am not as good now as I was say 4 years ago as not doing the miles now. I am rubbish at pitching the caravan mainly due to a stiff neck and lack of practice.
Lack of practice is because we have on the last three c/vans had a mover fitted (£ 600+) budget to have a one fitted.
Now I have always had powerful cars as I needed to get from home to Beadnell as fast as possible even when towing dive boats.
These days I normally, in France do 250 to 300 miles in a day and have been known to do 400. We always do settling in trips of a couple of 150 milers to settle in at start of the season.
Regretfully any fool can tow and you do see them on the road. You must get very competent at being very aware what is happening around and well in front of you. You are restricted in movement and stopping distance vastly increases.
You are restricted to 60 mph on m/w and duals and 50 on normal roads.
Beware that a Sat Nav is useless unless its caravan specific at even then be careful.
When buying a caravan you need to buy from a dealer, if a private sale be very careful there are a lot of checks required to ensure your not being had. Chris check, service history service bills, tyre age, repair bills.
It is impossible to buy a caravan that suits all you needs compromise the name of the game.
I have covered some things but there’s loads more.
Sorry to be so long winded.
Allan C.
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