With the advent of modern monarchy, most of the rituals of a court, whose protocol once set the rules for the Courts of Europe, have been abolished. The Spanish society, however, is still impinged by centuries of Noble and Clerical influence, and the Nobility and the Catholic Church retain not inconsiderable power, though egalitarian aspirations, fortified by the effects of the financial crisis, lead to strong questioning of their privileges, and indeed of the institution of Monarchy itself.
In that regard, the current honour system is not well known in Spain, let alone outside of it. It is indeed one of the most complex in the world, with more than a dozen official orders rewarding civil and military merits (each with many classes, collars, endless variations of the insignia...), insignia of function for the members Parliament, of the Judiciary order, professors at State Universities...; all of which coexist with awards of the corps of Nobility which have received Royal approbation.
Its interest, however, resides in the significance and history of the most prominent orders, which reflect dynastic traditions as well as the long transition towards a modern democratic system, and remain a continuous element of the representation of Spanish monarchs.
I will try to present some of these orders, I hope, in the least exhaustively manner, using mostly examples of jewelled insignia with Royal links, so as not to digress of the forum theme, which have flourished in Spanish Court life from its inception. Insignia, indeed, are essential to Royal representation, and although a rather overlooked subject, they are a key part of our unconscious vision of authority, not to mention wonderful artistic achievements.
(left) The Prince of Asturias (Felipe VI) takes the Constitutional oath before the Cortes after being awarded the Collar of Charles III, on January 30, 1986, his 18th birthday. (right) Leonor, Princess of Asturias receives the Order of the Golden Fleece, on January 30, 2018, her father's 50th birthday.
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The Order of the Golden Fleece
The collar of the order belonged to Juan, Count of Barcelona, awarded to Leonor, Princess of Asturias during her investiture, on January 30, 2018.
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"The order was founded by Philip III the Good, duke of Burgundy, at Bruges in Flanders in 1430, to commemorate his wedding to Isabella of Portugal. Dedicated to the Blessed Virgin and to St. Andrew, it was first constituted to have a grand master (the sovereign duke) and 23 knights, but membership was subsequently increased to 31 and eventually to 51. The order—founded to defend the Roman Catholic religion, to uphold the usages of chivalry, and to increase the prestige of the dukes of Burgundy—was ideally supposed to settle all disputes between its knights." (Encyclopaedia Britannica)
Through the marriage of Mary of Burgundy to the Austrian archduke Maximilian (1477), the Sovereignty of the Order passed to the house of Habsburg, whose rule over the Holy Roman Empire and Spanish territories meant that the Order was awarded all over Europe.
Emperor Charles V (Charles I of Spain), later passed the Sovereignty to his son Philip II of Spain. But the death of the last Habsburg king of Spain, Charles II, in 1700, which led to the War of the Spanish Succession, also resulted in a dispute over the Sovereignty of the Order. Philip V, new King of Spain (a Bourbon), legitimately became Sovereign of the Order, while his lead opponent, Archduke Charles (VI), instituted the Austrian Order of the Golden Fleece in Vienna in 1713. Since then, the two branches haves co-existed, implicitly acknowledging their respective sovereignty (one can theoretically never receive the order twice).
The Spanish order has been deemed less exclusive than the Austrian one, which is, even today, reserved to Roman Catholics of the highest nobility. Indeed, the Spanish order was often used in a political way, to reward non-Catholics, or commoners. The frequent turmoil in Spanish history also led to continued claims to the order (most notably by the Carlist claimants), which diminished its prestige.
Unlike other orders, the Golden Fleece was not revived by General Franco, who considered it a purely dynastic award, and King Juan Carlos received the Sovereignty of the order from his father Don Juan, when he abdicated his rights to the Spanish Throne, on May 14, 1977. Like his father, King Juan Carlos has made few concessions of the order, mostly to his closest advisors and European sovereigns. He invested Queen Beatrix of the Netherlands in 1985, the first female member in the history of the Order. King Felipe VI has assumed Sovereignty of the Order since his accession in 2014. He has only awarded the Order once, to his daughter and heiress, Leonor, Princess of Asturias, in 2015 (invested 2018).
Since the earliest days of the Burgundian order, considerable variations in the insignia have been observed, especially in the neck badge, and in the collar to a lesser extent. The only constant figures of the badge have been the fleece itself and the flames above it. Furthermore, whereas the regular badge of the Austrian Branch was progressively standardized from the end of 18th century, political turmoil in Spain prevented such an evolution, at least until the end of the 19th century, when a new type of badge appeared and was used by many Spanish Kings and Knights.
These variations, it should be noted, are often amplified on jewelled badges, which do not follow any regulated pattern, but rather the fancy of the commissioner.
It should be noted that unlike most orders, that gradually adopted stars and sashes, the Collar and the neck badge (as well as a processional mantle that was never used much) have always been the only distinctive marks of Knights, and have been in substance the same since the 15th century.
Collar of the Order of the Golden Fleece, made in Flanders, 16th century, enameled gold, length 118 cm, fleece 2.7 cm (Musée du Louvre, on long-term loan, Abu Dhabi) © Louvre Abu Dhabi-Thierry Ollivier.
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The Great Toison of Louis XV of France
This jewel, probably "the most extraordinary decoration ever made", according to B. Morel, was part of the 'Parure de Couleur', a set of jewelled insignia comprising a pendant of the Golden Fleece, a star and badge of the Order of the Holy-Spirit and a large epaulette. This parure, along with a similar one made only of white diamonds, was part of the French Crown Jewels during the Ancien Régime.
The importance of the jewel demonstrates the closeness of the French and Spanish Bourbons, who exchanged orders on a common basis until the end of the monarchy.
The Toison was commissioned to Pierre-André Jacquemin in 1749, who was responsible for selecting and setting the stones from the Crown Jewels.
Among those was an extraordinary 'ruby' that had belonged to Marguerite de Foix, duchess of Brittany, which was actually a red spinel, known to posterity as the 'Côte-de-Bretagne'. The myth of Jason mentions that a dragon guarded the Golden Fleece, so Jacquemin entrusted Jacques Guay with the task of carving a realistically modelled dragon from the spinel.
The main feature of the badge was the Blue Diamond of Louis XIV, acquired by the Sun-King from Tavernier, a famous diamond-merchant and traveller, for the equivalent of 150 kilograms of gold in 1669, and recut to suit European taste in 1673. It was "one of the first brilliant-cut diamonds ever documented", according to F. Farges. This extraordinary diamond, which disappeared after a theft in 1792, has now been conclusively identified as the source of the 'Hope' Diamond, now in the Smithsonian Museum.
(left) This color rendering of Louis XV’s Order of the Golden Fleece by jeweler Pierre-André Jacquemin (after 1749) is the only surviving contemporaneous drawing of the insignia, and the only known color drawing of the French Blue diamond.
(centre) (from top) The Côte-de-Bretagne (© Musée du Louvre/RMN) — Digital image of the original Blue Diamond after recutting (GIA) — Photograph of the 'Hope' Diamond (Smithsonian Institution).
(right) A modern reconstruction of the Badge was conducted in 2010 by Herbert Horovitz (Geneva) using replicas of the bigger stones and Indian diamonds for the the rest of the elements. The metalwork and stone setting was done by Jean Minassian (Geneva).
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Recently, another Toison reappeared in public after spending years hidden in the Bourbon Parma collection, to be sold at Sotheby's Geneva, Royal Jewels from the Bourbon Parma Family, 14 November 2018 (Lot 90). It belonged to Prince Louis Antoine of France, Duke of Angoulême, son and heir to the last King of France, Charles X, and titular King (in exile) as Louis XIX, and was left to her niece, Louise of Artois, by whom it was passed to the Bourbon Parma family. It is a precious testimony to the splendour of 19th century court life in France, and to the continuation of the family links with Borbonic Spain.
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© Sotheby's
The Toison seen both sides (© @gemcircus Instagram 03/10/18)
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Louis Antoine played a (small) part in Spanish history as commander of the 1823 Expedition that aimed at restoring absolute rule in the person of Ferdinand VII. The Place du Trocadéro, in Paris, is named after his Spanish victory.
The Portuguese Toisons
A curator holds the great Toison. (Lisbon, Palacio de Ajuda) © Campiso Rocha/CARAS
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This considerable insignia (27×12 cm) was made in Portugal by Ambrósio Gottlieb Pollet in 1790, in gold, silver, brilliants and rubies. Pollet was a noted jeweller, also responsible for a Badge and Star of the Riband of the Three Orders, made for Queen Maria in 1789.
The Toison shown both sides. (Lisbon, Palacio de Ajuda)
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This Toison is probably the largest surviving badge of the order. The motifs, especially the central stylized palm-leaf surrounded by a wreath of foliage, are typical of the period, and have featured in such insignia until the early 19th century. Similar badges are known to have been worn by Kings of Spain, like King Carlos IV, painted by Goya in 1789 (Madrid, Museo del Prado) [illustrated below]
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King João VI of Portugal, long time regent to his ailing mother, and quite disturbed himself, was (to the best of my knowledge) the first to be depicted with the Toison, which was in turn seen on his son, Pedro I of Brazil (briefly IV of Portugal), whose brother, Miguel I (1802-1866), already owned the badge in 1827 according to the Portuguese State Archives (Tesouros Reais), presumably receiving it from his father.
Either the Toison was shared by Pedro I and Dom Miguel, which is more than unlikely, as Miguel usurped for a time the throne of Maria II, his niece and wife (Pedro's daughter), or the Toison (most likely a copy of it) transited to the Brazilian Imperial branch of the Braganza Family, as Pedro II, son of Pedro I, nephew of Dom Miguel and last Emperor of Brazil, was also portrayed with a very similar badge.
(l. to r.) Domingos Sequeira, João (VI), Prince Regent of Portugal, 1802, Lisbon, Palacio de Ajuda — Simplício Rodrigues de Sá, Pedro I, c. 1830. Petrópolis, Museu Imperial — Louis Auguste Moreaux, Pedro II, 1871. Petrópolis, Museu Imperial.
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In 1943, it was acquired by the Portuguese Republic, "from the heirs of Dom Miguel" (Tesouros Reais).
Interestingly, the large sapphire was bought in 1945 to be substituted to the replica stone that was set in the jewel.
Another lavish Toison is historically linked to the House of Braganza. This smaller badge was made in Portugal in the 2nd half of the 19th century. The stylized design of the main element is reminiscent of contemporary insignia, such as the badges of the Albert, Prince Consort (see below). It is made of diamonds (brilliants and rose-cut) entirely set in gold. The central ruby weighs 4.25 carats.
The Toison (Lisbon, Palacio de Ajuda). It may have been worn by King-Consort Fernando II in this 1861 photograph (London, RCT, RCIN 2907952).
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This badge was returned by Queen Amélia to the Portuguese Ministry of Foreign Affairs, after the end of the monarchy.
British Toisons
The British Royal Collection holds an important number of Toisons, three of which were worn by Prince Albert, Prince Consort, in his lifetime. Prince Albert was offered the order in 1841 by the Regency in the name of Queen Isabella II, he was invested 27 April 1841 by the Duke of Wellington, acting as Isabella’s proxy in his position as a Grandee of Spain and a Knight of the Golden Fleece. Stylistically, these insignia were rather ancient looking even in 1841, reflecting the design of early 19th century pieces, rather than contemporary Continental badges.
Prince Albert's Badges of the Order of the Golden Fleece. (London, The Royal Collection Trust); (left) Badge in precious stones that might have belonged to George IV. c.1820 (RCIN 441169) — (centre) Badge in diamonds, c. 1810, later adapted to incorporate opals and presented to Prince Albert on his birthday, 1841. I was possibly previously sold to Rundell, Bridge & Co. in 1830, like many insignia of George III and IV were. (RCIN 441170) — (right) Badge commissioned for Prince Albert's investiture in 1841, and copied from a Badge belonging to the Duke of Wellington, Knight since 1812.
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The King's Toisons
This jewelled Toison has been worn often by King Juan Carlos I since the late sixties. Since his abdication, it has been worn by his son in 2014. The badge reportedly belonged to King Alfonso XII.
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(© Casa de S.M. el Rey)
This elaborate jewel is actually a variation of the badge of intricate design that was most popular in the second half of the 19th century. Similar badges were worn by the Spanish Knights and by Kings Alfonso XII, Alfonso XIII, Edward VII, Tsar Nicholas II, among many others royals.
King Felipe VI, unlike his father, has worn such a badge (without jewels) on some occasions since his accession.
(left) At the opening of the judicial year 2016. — (right) The personal example of Prince Alphonse of Bavaria, Infante of Spain (sold Hermann Historica Auction 74m, March-April 2017, Cat. No. 4134).
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The King of Spain owns at least two other jewelled Toisons. These have a very intriguing history:
Three jewelled toisons belonging to the King of Spain, in an exhibition, at the Fundación Carlos Amberes, 2011. (Screen capture, Antenna 3)
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In 1987, a private Swiss bank proceeded to open one of its safes, anonymously owned, after the 'Count of Grove' who had paid the rent for years had ceased his payments. Following procedures, the bank was about to take possession of the safe's contents, but after close examination, the objects contained in it, which were accompanied by many documents, were found to be without question the property of the late King Alfonso XIII of Spain.
It is known that María Araceli Lóriga y Taboada, the fourth and last 'condesa del Grove', a title created by Alfonso XIII for one of his generals in 1902, passed away in 1983, so payments probably stopped after her death.
Following this unforeseen discovery, the bank renounced its rights over the objects and returned them to the Spanish Royal House.
Reports in the Spanish press mentioned the traditional provenance of the two Toisons, which associated them with Charles V and Philip II. Further study of the jewels has discredited this theory.
After their reappearance, King Juan Carlos and his father, Don Juan, have worn one Toison each, on (very) few occasions.
That of the Count of Barcelona was briefly shown at the Palacio de la Granja in 1993, on the occasion of the eightieth anniversary of his birth. The King loaned it for an exhibition in 1998 ("Felipe II: Un monarca y su época.") and since then both badges have been illustrated in a number of books and shown together, notably at the Fundación Carlos de Amberes (Madrid, 2011), but scarcely (if ever) seen worn since the late 1980s.
The Toison "of Carlos V"
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(© Casa de S.M. el Rey)
This important badge, measuring 8.5 × 12 cm is made of gold, gilt-silver, diamonds and rubies. The biggest diamond (between the flames) is radiant-cut.
The upper element, of rather small size, is composed of two stylized 'B' (for Burgundy?) leaning symmetrically against each other. From this hang the protuberant flames and fleece, of very plain make.
According to Fernando Martin (La Orden del Toisón…, 2011), the workmanship denotes a late 19th century piece.
This badge is the one worn by Don Juan Carlos.
The Toison "of Felipe II"
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(© Casa de S.M. el Rey)
This most elegant badge, measuring 6.5 × 11 cm is made of gold, gilt-silver, diamonds, rubies and a sapphire.
The central element (the foliage wreath) is probably a 17th century element, later altered to incorporate the central lily, while the flames and the Toison, of reduced size, are typical of 18th century productions. The reverse exhibits late 19th century rivets, the work of Chaumet in Paris.
In all likelihood, this composite badge was a wedding present to Alfonso XII from Cristina de Borbon y Borbon, wife of Infante Sebastian, in 1878, and probably assembled at that time.
This badge was worn by Don Juan in his lifetime, if appears the Alfonso XIII was also portrayed with it.
King Alfonso XIII (left, by Fernando Álvarez de Sotomayor) — Don Juan, Count of Barcelona (centre) and King Juan Carlos (right), both photographed on October 17, 1988 during the banquet held in honour of Queen Elizabeth II.
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In the reign of Juan Carlos, the Knights have received, apart from the collar which is the property of the Order, a small jewelled badge, which functions for gentlemen as a neck badge and lapel badge, and is worn on a bow by ladies.
The small Toisons of Queen Elizabeth II (left; 6.6 × 2.9 cm, made by Villanueva y Laiseca, Madrid, c. 1980) and The Princess of Asturias (right; presented to her in 2018).
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Despite the lavishness of the gift, one may regret that the larger neck badges have fallen into (relative) disuse, though the use of reduced insignia is not new.
In the past, any knight would have owned a number of badges, the size and elaborateness of which reflected the level of formality of the occasion. King Alfonso XIII owned innumerable reduced size badges, miniatures, miniatures of the collar, which were adapted for day-wear, uniform and gala dress.
The now standard jewelled insignia is worn by the King on most formal occasions.
The newly invested Princess of Asturias, 12, is already following her father's footsteps, and those of her will-be predecessor, Isabel II, as Sovereign of the Order, as she wore the order for the military ceremony marking Spain's National Day earlier this month (October 2018).
(left), Isabel II, wearing the Toison on her bodice (by Eduardo Zamacois, Palacio Real de Aranjuez © Patrimonio Nacional) (right) The Princess of Asturias and Infanta Sofia on the "Day of Hispanicity" 2018. © Getty Images.
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King Felipe in Judicial Robes (with Alfonso XII's jewelled Toison) King Juan Carlos (2005, Dany Virgili) and King Felipe as Captains Generals of the Spanish Army (2014) (all photos © Casa Real)
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The Royal and Distinguished Order of Charles III
The small collar made for Queen Isabel II. (Madrid, Ministerio de Asuntos Exteriores y de Cooperación)
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The Order of Charles III was established by King Charles III in 1771. Carlos, a great-grandson of Louis XIV of France, was one of many Bourbon rulers in southern Europe at the time. King of Spain from 1759 to 1788, he had proved his talents as a reformer during his previous reign as Charles VII of Naples, V of Sicily (1734-1759), during which time he founded the Order of Saint Januarius in 1738, with the approval of his father, then King of Spain.
In this intricate family scheme, one thing remained constant: the design of the orders created by Charles III: both were reminiscent of the most senior order of the French monarchy, the Order of the Holy Spirit, which Charles had received at a very young age.
Crosses of the Orders of the Holy Spirit (from the House of Orléans, ca. 1791-1814, sold Sotheby's Paris, 2015) — of Saint Januarius (the property of HRH the Duke of Castro) — and of Charles III (first type with crown and flames in the arms, in a private collection)
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In this portrait by Anton Raphael Mengs, 1765-1766, the King wears the red sash of the Order of Saint Januarius (with jewelled cross) over the blue one of the Order of the Holy Spirit, the jewelled star of which adorns his mantle. (Copenhagen, SMK - Den Kongelige Malerisamling)
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The Order of Charles III was placed under the patronage of the Virgin Mary, whose traditional colours were reflected in the badge and ribbon (blue and white), with the motto Virtuti & Merito. The image of the Virgin was inspired by a picture by Murillo, the Spanish painter.
The two original classes were later extended to today's five classes. The Order received lavish insignia (collar, sash badge, star, mantle) which have continually been worn by the Spanish monarchs to this day, with minor evolutions in their appearance (the mantle is no longer used).
Princess (now Queen) Sofia became the first female member of the Order in 1962, with the notable exception of Queen Isabel II, Sovereign of the Order.
Today, the ribbon, often the most visible part of the order's insignia, is of three equal stripes (blue, white and blue) for all classes, except for recipients of the Collar, who wear a blue sash with two thin white stripes at the edges.
A unusual jewelled badge from the Portuguese Royal Family made c. 1796 (Lisbon, Palacio da Ajuda)
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A late 18th century jewelled Collar Badge of the Order (Collection of A.B. Spada, on long-term loan: Paris, MNLHOC), similar to the one seen in this portrait (detail) of King Fernando VII by Vicente López Portaña (Valencia, Palacio de Cervelló)
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A jewelled Grand Cross Star, from the Italian House of Barberini, middle of the 18th century. Silver embroidery, gold, silver, pearls, lapis lazuli and diamonds. (Collection of A.B. Spada, on loan: Paris, MNLHOC)
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The most exceptional jewelled Insignia of the Sovereign, used by King Juan Carlos I, and his son and successor, Felipe VI, whose provenance hasn't been disclosed (© Casa de S.M. el Rey).
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Detail of the Badge, photographed in the workshop of Madrid-based 'Condecoralia Artesanos', official purveyor of the Royal House (All rights reserved).
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The King wears the regular star more often, which has gilt lilies denoting the class of Collar of the Order. When in uniform, he will wear the star with those of the Orders of Military, Naval and Aeronautical Merit.
Star of the Collar from the Estate of Queen Victoria Eugenia (Sold Piguet Geneva 10.12.2012)
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The Order of the Noble Ladies of Queen Maria Luisa
The Order was created by King Charles IV of Spain on the instance of his Queen, Maria Luisa, in 1792, to reward Ladies of Noble birth exclusively. Following the Statutes there were to be no more than 30 members at any given time, in a unique class of 'Noble Lady', the Queen of Spain being Grand Mistress of the Order. The distinction was held in high regard at the Spanish Court, were it carried the treatment of 'Excellency', extensible to the Lady's husband (after 1796).
The Ladies wore a gold maltese cross bearing the lions of Leon and the castles of Castile between the arms, and the figure of Saint Ferdinand, patron of the Spanish Kings on the obverse, and the cypher of Maria Luisa on the reverse (it was the property of the Chapter of the Order until the end of the 19th century), which was worn (daily) from a moiré sash of three stripes (violet-white-violet). In 1878, King Alfonso XII authorized that the cross could be worn from a bow on the left chest on less formal occasions.
A gold cross of the order with riband, c. 44mm wide, in case of issue by Cejalvo y Garcia, Madrid (sold eBay, 2 November 2014).
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The Order was often used as a diplomatic gift: Queen Victoria, still a princess, and although not a Catholic, received in 1834 two badges, one in diamonds, for "high-dress", the second in gold. She also wore a small jewelled cross with her other miniatures until the end of her life.
Queen Victoria's surviving insignia of the order. Note that the ribbon has slightly faded. (London, The Royal Collection).
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Since Don Juan, Count of Barcelona, invested Queen Sofia at the time of her wedding in 1962, there have been no new appointments to the Order, although it remains formally in existence. Since the late 1980s, perhaps the early 1990s, the insignia of the order haven't been worn by any of its surviving Ladies. It is my understanding that in modern day Spain, an order so exclusively aristocratic, not to mention only opened to ladies, was deemed a superfluous part of a now equalitarian honour system.
Two jewelled crosses of the Order, the one on the left from a member of the Austrian imperial family (sold Dorotheum, Imperial court memorabilia auction, on 7 May 2003 (lot 168) for 12.000 €), the second (Collection of A.B. Spada, on long-term loan: Paris, MNLHOC) very similar to one worn by Queen Victoria Eugénie, as seen during the pre-wedding gala of Infanta Pilar, Estoril, May 4, 1967.
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A Spanish peculiarity emerged in the second half of the 19th century: individuals who had many orders to wear had sashes made to the colours of multiple orders: this practice was commonly observed by Isabel II, other princesses and by some men as well. Spanish-born Empress Eugénie of the French was known to wear such sashes, of which an example survived:
Empress Eugénie's Sash of the Orders of Maria Luisa, Saint Isabel, Saint Catherine and the Starry Cross, with a gold cross of Maria Luisa (Palais de Compiègne, on loan: Paris, MNLHOC)
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The Military Orders and the Noble Orders
Drawing of a shield with representations of the four orders: (clockwise from top) cross of the Order of Santiago (Order of St. James of the Sword), of the Order of Alcantara, of the Order of Montesa, and of the Order of Calatrava.
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The Spanish military orders are the last four surviving orders from the time of the Reconquista. Like other orders of knighthood (Malta, Knights Templars…), they served a dual purpose, religious and military, to protect and evangelize the places they occupied, where they established feudal control. They were organized in commandries or 'Encomiendas'.
At the end of the 15th century, Ferdinand the Catholic, obtained, by papal concession, the unification in his person of the office of Grand Master of all four orders, for him and his successors.
Since then, the Orders are headed by the King of Spain (seconded by a Royal President) and administered by the Orders Council. They are now purely honorary, though exclusive and prestigious, Noble fraternities.
A late 19th century badge of the Order of Santiago (© Victoria and Albert Museum), with a badge and a star of that order from the Bourbon Parma Family (to be sold at Sotheby's Geneva, 14 November 2018 (lots 24-25).
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King Alfonso XIII wore elements of the insignia of the orders frequently: from pictures and portraits we know that he possessed jewelled 'medals', which may be compared to the ones illustrated here; and a precious star made with the crosses of the four orders in coloured stones, which may have been passed to Juan Carlos I.
After his abdication, Juan Carlos became Grand Master emeritus, passing the position to the reigning King. However, unlike the Sovereign's insignia of the Order of Charles III, his jewelled badge of the orders wasn't passed to Felipe VI.
(right) King Juan Carlos during the investiture of King Felipe VI as Captain General of the Armed Forces, on June 19, 2014 (©EFE/Zipi) — (left) King Alfonso XIII wearing a similar badge (RCT).
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Similar in spirit to the star of the combined orders is this privately commissioned badge belonged to Prince Alphonse of Bavaria, Infante of Spain, bearing (clockwise from top) the Star of the Collar of the Order of Charles III, the crosses of the Royal Corps of Nobility of Madrid and the Royal 'Maestranza' of Chivalry of Zaragoza and the Order of Santiago (Collection of A.B. Spada, on long-term loan: Paris, MNLHOC).
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Royal Ladies have often been presented with (and have sometimes worn) the medals of the various corps of Nobility and Chivalrous Societies. Queen Victoria Eugénie and the Countess of Barcelona famously wore them in cascades of bows on the left chest.
(left) in Switzerland, 1956 (Nina Leen-LIFE) — (right) during Infanta Pilar Pre-Wedding Reception, Estoril, 1967 (© Alamy)
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As a conclusion, these portraits of His Majesty King Felipe VI as Sovereign of the Orders of Charles III and Isabella the Catholic mark the monarch's continued role as Fons Honorum, head of the Honour system in modern-day Spain.
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Thomas Ghysdaël
Sources
Catalogues
La Orden del Toisón de Oro y sus soberanos (1430-2011), Madrid, 2011, Fundación Carlos de Amberes.
Honneur & Gloire, Les trésors de la collection Spada, Paris, 2008, Musée national de la Légion d’honneur et des ordres de chevalerie.
Tesouros Reais, Lisbon, 1991.
Stephen Patterson, Royal Insignia: British and Foreign Orders of Chivalry from the Royal Collection, London, 1996.
Sotheby's, Royal Jewels from the Bourbon Parma Family, November 2018.
Guillaume Glorieux (supervisor), The Fabulous Destiny of Tavernier's Diamonds, Paris, 2017, The School of Jewellery arts.
Books and articles
Alfonso de Ceballos-Escalera y Gila, vizconde de Ayala, La Real y Americana Orden de Isabel la Católica, Madrid, 2015. (Available online: https://www.boe.es/publicaciones/biblioteca_juridica/)
Alfonso de Ceballos-Escalera y Gila, vizconde de Ayala, La Real y Distinguida Orden Española de Carlos III, Madrid, 2016. (Available online: https://www.boe.es/publicaciones/biblioteca_juridica/)
"La Real Orden de Damas nobles de la reina Maria-Luisa", in A. de Ceballos-Escalera y Gila, A. de Arteaga y del Alcázar, F. Fernández-Miranda y Lozana, Las reales órdenes y condecoraciones civiles del reino de España, Madrid, 1997.
Bernard Morel, Les joyaux de la couronne de France, 1988, Fonds Mercator.
F. Farges, S. Sucher, H. Horovitz, J.-M. Fourcault "The French Blue and the Hope: new data from the discovery of a historical lead cast.", in Gems & Gemology, Spring 2009 issue. (Available online: https://www.gia.edu/doc/SP09.pdf)
Web
https://www.antena3.com/noticias/exposicion-toison-oro-condecoracion-mas-prestigiosa-mundo_201111305749a3c66584a8317e0f9c62.html
https://www.recorri2.com/latest/toisones-de-oro-i
With special thanks to Dr. Georg Ludwigstorff, Dorotheum, for tracking down the jewelled cross of the Order of Maria Luisa.
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