I agree about Queen Mary having it made possibly, I don’t know much about EMF and her taste but it seems closer in style to the Lincoln Tiara or Kent Bandeau or Crochet Tiara than the Russian Wave Tiara (though it does have vague similarities in its outline to the Elizabeth Alexeievna Tiara). I just don’t believe it could have been that early.
I also think that your comment about it and the Ladies of India Brooch was interesting. Perhaps the tiara was made to take both centers as it has been seen with both and the idea that it was made for the sapphire and adapted for the emerald is wrong. She had the bandeau or crochet to wear with the Cambridge Emeralds so why have another adapted to take an emerald unless it had always been that way (in the same way that the Delhi Durbar Tiara could be worn in different ways). I also think that it doesn’t matter if the sapphire doesn’t quite match as in my view the Art Deco’ness of the Lincoln Tiara doesn’t match the Lincoln Brooch. I have always thought that the Lincoln Tiara and what I currently call the Sapphire Sunburst Tiara or Sunburst Bandeau Tiara were stylistically a pair.
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