Regards,
Dave.
Since I found the image of Queen Mary wearing the Delhi Durbar tiara with the Lesser Stars of Africa in the Illustrated London News 20 May 1911, queries have been raised over when the tiara was actually made and whether it was designed for the Cullinan diamonds or the Cambridge emeralds. See http://royaljewelslists.boardhost.com/viewtopic.php?id=295 Prior to that, I think most accepted that the tiara was designed for the Cambridge emeralds.
In The Queen's Diamonds page 178 Hugh Roberts provides several clues that the tiara was initially intended to feature the Cambridge emeralds.
One is that in Garrard's ledgers it is described as the "...large emerald and diamond tiara..." As Garrard made the jewel they knew what Queen Mary intended.
Secondly, in the invoices sent to George V and Queen Mary in June 1911 the work undertaken is described as " Mounting Her Majesty's Emeralds as Tiara, Necklace & Stomacher..."
Thirdly, Roberts' quote from Queen Mary's jewel inventory includes the description --"The emeralds can be removed and the centre is adapted to take the 2 lesser Stars of Africa."
Had the jewel initially been designed to take the Lesser Stars of Africa it would seem logical that the description would indicate that they could be removed and the tiara was adapted to take the emeralds.
Without access to the Royal Archives or Garrard's archives, which would show an order date for the tiara and necklace, it is impossible to say with certainty when the tiara was made. What we do know from Roberts is that the invoice for the work was sent out in June 1911 some time after Queen Mary took possession of the jewels.
We know that Queen Mary had possession of the tiara before 20 May 1911 when the first photo (by Thomson) was published in the Illustrated London News
and of the rest of the parure by 24 June 1911 when the Illustrated London News published this photo (by Stuart) which was initially found by Nellie of RJWMB
Newspaper reports show that parts of the parure were worn by Queen Mary for various events around the time of the coronation, some months before the Delhi Durbar.
In an effort to verify when the tiara was made there has been an emphasis on the date of the photos. http://members2.boardhost.com/royal-jewels/thread/1545814019.html
Without access to Queen Mary's appointment diaries, it is probably not possible to determine precisely when all photos were taken, but there are other clues which allow for some deductions to be made. But I admit it is guess work!
Prior to the coronation period the King and Queen had a relatively busy schedule, and it is unlikely that Queen Mary had much free time in London until early May 1911.
The King and Queen returned to London from Sandringham at the end of January 1911.
Parliament was opened on 6 February 1911.
On 23 February 1911 Campbell Gray as well as Bassano photographed the King following an Investiture.
12 April 1911 the court went to Windsor.
27 April 1911 court returned to London
6 May 1911 Bassano photographed Queen Mary
Diss Express 12 May 1911
The Bassano photos of Queen Mary appeared in the press almost immediately alongside those Bassano took of George V on 23 February. For example
Daily Telegraph 16 May 1911
Unfortunately, neither Stuart, who took the photos of Queen Mary wearing the emerald parure, or Thomson, who took the photos showing the Lesser Stars of Africa in the tiara, publicised their photographic sessions in the press.
Nevertheless, I suspect that both took their photos shortly before the images were published. Both photographers registered their work with the Stationers Company for copyright purposes.
The National Archives UK records show that Thomson registered his photos on 19 May 1911 and William Slade Stuart registered his on 14 June 1911.
Apart from that, the style of dress Queen Mary is seen wearing in the Thomson and Stuart photos indicates clothing for the summer of 1911. In 1910 ladies' evening dresses featured more chiffon and floating styles. For examples these styles worn by Queen Mary in 1910.
By the time of the First Court of the new reign in 1911 --at Queen Mary's behest --English fabrics, and in particular brocades were the fashion.
The dress Queen Mary wore in the series of photos by Thomson is clearly made of brocade and has a more severe line than her 1910 dresses.
I strongly suspect that all the photos were taken in 1911, most probably in early to mid May 1911.
Although the available evidence suggests to me that the tiara was initially designed to feature the Cambridge emeralds, it is highly likely that Queen Mary always intended that the Lesser Stars of Africa would be used as an alternative to the emeralds and, when the original configuration of the Lesser Stars of Africa no longer pleased her, she had the tiara changed in 1912.
Because the Lesser Stars of Africa (Cullinan III and IV) were used in detachable settings in Queen Mary's jewels, they could be moved between jewels with relative ease and, depending on how complex the fittings were, it is even possible that a maid might have been able to switch the diamonds (in much the same way as we have seen Angela Kelly change the drops in the Vladimir tiara)
Because the diamonds were not set permanently into any one jewel, they could be worn as a pendant to HM's diamond necklace for the Opening of Parliament on 6 February 1911
And for the Thomson photographs of the Delhi Durbar tiara in early May 1911.
And then in combination with the Koh-i-noor at a State ball given in honour of the Emperor and Empress of Germany on 19 May 1911.
Times 20 May 1911
Gentlewoman and Modern Life 27 May 1911
and then in her crown for the Coronation.
Perhaps one of the most telling clues about the creation date for the tiara is the invoice date from Garrard: 16 June 1911. If the tiara had been created in 1910 would the firm have waited at least 6 months to forward an account, no matter how exalted the client?
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