The dress is quite heavy (4,5 kg), but I don't think it's particularly stiff. Lady Curzon commissioned Indian craftsmen with the metal embroidery on silk chiffon, and the fabric was then sent to Worth in Paris. You probably know Charles Frederick Worth's work from portraits of Empress Eugenie of the French, whose official dressmaker he was, or Empress Elisabeth of Austria. By the time the peacock dress was commissioned he was already dead, but the House of Worth continued to be the preeminent haute couture salon until the late 1910s. And what was often mistaken as emeralds were in fact iridescent beetle wings.
From the V&A website:
„The wings of jewel beetles (buprestidae) were traditionally used to embellish textiles in South America and South and Southeast Asia. Emerald-green beetle-wing decoration became a symbol of high status in India during the Mughal period (1526-1756). Western traders in India then introduced these textiles to Europe in the late eighteenth and early nineteenth centuries. British newspapers report on several women wearing dresses decorated with beetle wings at court during the late 1820s and early 1830s. By the 1860s beetle wings were being imported to Britain in volumes of 25,000 per consignment, to be applied to textiles in imitation of the Indian technique. The wings were cut, shaped and arranged in stylised floral patterns, often accented with metal thread. The wings would have glittered in candlelight, achieving a sought-after iridescent and jewel-like effect.“
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