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Spanish Noble Jewels - Esperanza Chávarri Aldecoa, Countess of Villagonzalo
Posted by Thomas on September 2, 2018, 11:32 pm
Back in June of this year, an important Diamond rivičre was sold at Christie's in London.
(Courtesy of Christie's)
(Courtesy of Christie's)
The provenance was described as such: "Formerly from the collection of a lady of title (pictured) who, in the early 20th century, served as Lady-in-Waiting to Victoria Eugenie of Battenberg, Queen consort of Spain and wife of King Alfonso XIII."
Aside from the jewel itself, it was the photograph of the lady that caught my attention:
(Courtesy of Christie's)
What an unusual array of jewels! From the considerable rivičre, almost a sautoir, remarkably akin to the style favoured by Queen Victoria-Eugénie; to the tiara, fashionably worn bandeau-style, which is actually formed of two tiaras and a tassel pendant; not to mention the eclectic mix of Années folles fashion with formal Court wear and decorations (the red sash and bow were worn by the ladies-in-waiting to the Queen of Spain). A similar badge, from the time of Queen Isabel II:
I had to find out the name of this intriguing lady!
Spanish newspapers provided an answer: she was Esperanza Chávarri Aldecoa, Countess of Villagonzalo.
Born in 1893, the daughter of a Spanish politician, Benigno de Chávarri y Salazar, created Marquess of Chávarri in 1914, she married in 1912 the eigth Count of Villagonzalo, Fernando Maldonado Salabert, Grande of Spain (died 1936), and was made a Lady of Queen Victoria-Eugénie in 1924. She died in Madrid in 1982.
I found few references to her tiara, just enough to think it was made by Ansorena, and displayed recently with other creations of the jewellery house.
Sadly, I learned in the meantime the tiara was to be auctionned as well, this time by London-based Bonhams on 26 September 2018.
(Courtesy of Bonhams)
The tiara is described as a platinium Belle Époque tiara, by Ansorena, designed in the Greek meander style. According to the Auction house, the tiara was made circa 1900, but it "is noted in Ansorena's archives as being conceived as early as 1890".
The most remarkable, and perhaps unique feature of this tiara is that it was conceived as two separate headpieces, which form a rather elegant tiara when put together, or can function as a parure (tiara and choker) when the lower part is put off its frame.
(Courtesy of Bonhams)
Though versatility is an integral part of the art of tiaras, this particular example dislays such ingeniosity and fine craftsmanship that it thought we could discuss it here!
Last, but not least, I have found one more picture of the Countess, slightly older and wearing the same tiara, again with the tassel, and an impressive fringe necklace.
(Dinastias forogratis – User Pepón)
The necklace (which doubles as a tiara) is also an Ansorena jewel. It was displayed along with the double tiara, as can be seen in a short video about the exhibition:
(Youtube - Tele Madrid)
I hope we can learn more about this lady and her jewels.
Congratulations Thomas! I can imagine the amount of research which has gone into this extremely interesting post. For once I was left almost speechless as I read your post!
Both the lady, the Countess of Villagonzalo, and her jewels are totally new to me.
I wonder if the central element of the lower section of the double tiara did not appeal to the Countess, as on both occasions she has attached a fringe brooch? Or perhaps that was a contemporary fashion which she followed? I feel that the fringe brooch detracts from the original design. What do others think?
I would love to see a photo of her wearing the lower section of the tiara as a choker.
I suspect that, to enable the fringe necklace/tiara to be worn almost as a corsage ornament outlining the neckline of her gown, a back chain was attached to the necklace. Or, perhaps the jewel has been sewn onto the grown? Because in the photo the necklace sits slightly asymmetrically, I am inclined to the former idea. Any thoughts?
This board offers the opportunity to discuss noble jewels, often less publicized than their royal counterparts, but often quite as lavish.
I must confess I am not well-read in the field of Spanish aristocracy, nor did I know of the Countess earlier, but such jewels deserved researching.
Incidentally, your remark about the fringe brooch reminded me a a very similar, and contemporary, example (didn't we discuss this tiara in another thread?):
Georgina Leonora Barnard Douglas (née Mosselmans), Marchioness of Queensberry, by Bassano Ltd, whole-plate glass negative, 27 April 1922 (NPG x121507)
People do have weird ideas...
Previous Message
Congratulations Thomas! I can imagine the amount of research which has gone into this extremely interesting post. For once I was left almost speechless as I read your post!
Both the lady, the Countess of Villagonzalo, and her jewels are totally new to me.
I wonder if the central element of the lower section of the double tiara did not appeal to the Countess, as on both occasions she has attached a fringe brooch? Or perhaps that was a contemporary fashion which she followed? I feel that the fringe brooch detracts from the original design. What do others think?
I would love to see a photo of her wearing the lower section of the tiara as a choker.
I suspect that, to enable the fringe necklace/tiara to be worn almost as a corsage ornament outlining the neckline of her gown, a back chain was attached to the necklace. Or, perhaps the jewel has been sewn onto the grown? Because in the photo the necklace sits slightly asymmetrically, I am inclined to the former idea. Any thoughts?
Thank you Thomas. I didn't understand the tiara of Georgina Mosselmans until Mauriz found the photo showing the tiara with its large solitaire diamond. Using brooches in this way is perplexing, but I feel it was much more successfully done by the Countess.
Yes Thomas, this board does give the opening to discuss jewels which are not mainstream and this is the brilliant foresight which Beth has expertly shown. It opens up wide discussions and lets out information about jewels, people and situations not readily known. The board can only grow from here on out. Thanks Beth, keep it up.
Regards,
Dave.
Previous Message
This board offers the opportunity to discuss noble jewels, often less publicized than their royal counterparts, but often quite as lavish.
I must confess I am not well-read in the field of Spanish aristocracy, nor did I know of the Countess earlier, but such jewels deserved researching.
Incidentally, your remark about the fringe brooch reminded me a a very similar, and contemporary, example (didn't we discuss this tiara in another thread?):
Georgina Leonora Barnard Douglas (née Mosselmans), Marchioness of Queensberry, by Bassano Ltd, whole-plate glass negative, 27 April 1922 (NPG x121507)
People do have weird ideas...
Previous Message
Congratulations Thomas! I can imagine the amount of research which has gone into this extremely interesting post. For once I was left almost speechless as I read your post!
Both the lady, the Countess of Villagonzalo, and her jewels are totally new to me.
I wonder if the central element of the lower section of the double tiara did not appeal to the Countess, as on both occasions she has attached a fringe brooch? Or perhaps that was a contemporary fashion which she followed? I feel that the fringe brooch detracts from the original design. What do others think?
I would love to see a photo of her wearing the lower section of the tiara as a choker.
I suspect that, to enable the fringe necklace/tiara to be worn almost as a corsage ornament outlining the neckline of her gown, a back chain was attached to the necklace. Or, perhaps the jewel has been sewn onto the grown? Because in the photo the necklace sits slightly asymmetrically, I am inclined to the former idea. Any thoughts?