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Queen Mary by Hay Wrightson
Posted by Thomas on March 13, 2019, 5:54 am
Dear all, since I have just (at long last!) recovered the files from my old computer, including my password to the board, I am finally able to react on the many interesting discussions that I could only read, and not comment, until now.
This picture J.-F. posted (of Queen Mary wearing Queen Victoria’s Diamond Bracelet) triggered my interest, as it was entirely new to me.
As Franck mentioned, this exceptional combination of jewels wasn’t (to the best of my knowledge) known to us, either in portraiture or from photographs.
The juxtaposition of large rivières with the great sautoir truly highlights the huge size of these diamonds.
I'm not sure I recognise the other bracelet, does anyone?
Likewise, this particular setting of the Durbar tiara (RCIN 250528), complete of its original closing line on top, and boasting the Cullinans III and IV as an integral part of the design completely changed my appreciation of this tiara.
This very harmonious form of the Durbar tiara seemed new to me, until I realized that Queen Mary had worn it as early as 1922, for the state Visit of King Albert I and Queen Elizabeth of the Belgians, as seen in this contemporary postcard:
The portrait shared by J.-F. was taken by Hay Wrightson, circa 1930. I tracked down the source of this press photograph, which was sold by IMS Vintage Photos, Stockholm. The back of the image provides interesting insight about the portrait, which seems to have pleased the Queen very much indeed. Wrightson photographed Queen Mary on many occasions until his death in 1949.
I have found two further occurrences of this portrait: both are signed by the Queen, with the years 1931 and 1933 respectively.
The one from 1931 was used as a formal presentation portrait adressed to Percival Griffiths, Esq., in a lavish silver-gilt frame by Garrard & Co., London (Sold Freeman's Auctions, Philadelphia, 18 Oct. 2016, $6,250).
The second (sold on eBay) bears a small autograph note on the back.
This portrait now ranks amongst my favourite images of Queen Mary!
I am delighted that all is now well with your computer Thomas. Congratulations on tracking down so much information about this particular study of Queen Mary.
Part of the photo was published on 4 May 1935 by the Illustrated London News when the paper noted it had been taken in 1930. I am not sure if I have a copy of the photo from 1930 -- I will have to look more carefully at my files. When I found the ILN image I was more interested in the appearance of the diamond sautoir and the position of the Lesser Stars of Africa in the tiara.
J-F's wonderful image allowed me to see more clearly how the diamonds were mounted in the tiara, and to interpret what changes Garrard made in 1912. I think we have all misunderstood what was done in 1912. I had intended to do 2 posts about those -- which I will post later today.
When I initially found an image of Queen Mary wearing the Delhi Durbar tiara published in the Illustrated London News 20 May 1911 it proved that Queen Mary wore the tiara before the Delhi Durbar and that it could be worn with the Lesser Stars of Africa before the changes made by Garrard in 1912. It also proved that the Royal Collection date of 1912 for the photos from this portrait sitting was incorrect.
The Wellcome collection has a copy of one of the photos from this sitting which has a much higher resolution.
The Wellcome image allows us to see clearly how the Lesser Stars of Africa were mounted in the tiara in 1911.
Because of a mistake in Hugh Roberts and the dating of a photo from this sitting by Thomson by the Royal Collection, it had been assumed that it was only in 1912 that the tiara was adapted to take the Lesser Stars of Africa. This is not so. From the outset the tiara could be fitted with the Lesser Stars - or as some refer to the diamonds, Cullinan III and IV.
In The Queen's Diamonds page 178 foot note 6 shows that in 1912 Garrard made 2 adjustments to the Delhi Durbar tiara.
Robert's foot note
The first alteration in March 1912 allowed the Lesser Stars of Africa to be mounted within the tiara in a different setting, allowing Cullinan III to fit within the tiara instead of surmounting it and for Cullinan IV to hang on the diagonal instead of appearing as a square.
The definition of the 1930 photo which J-F found allows us to see more clearly how the new setting for the Cullinans was done.
The major change involved how Cullinan III was mounted. Part of the original tiara in the centre had to be made detachable and a modified element created. What I am saying is that Cullinan III did not simply hang over the existing setting.
However the jewellers did this new setting, it was detachable, as later the tiara is seen with the original central setting.
The earliest photos showing Queen Mary with the Lesser Stars of Africa worn within the tiara are I think from the Belgian State visit in 1922 (see Thomas' photo)
Although we don't have photos of the changes made in 1912 until a later date, I think that from 1912 the Lesser Stars of Africa were always worn in this manner. One of the things which has probably confused jewellery lovers is the paucity of photos from this period. The newspapers indicate that Queen Mary wore the tiara with the Lesser Stars of Africa frequently, but we have no photos of HM at the numerous Courts; we have only the formal portrait sittings which were done by various photographers. Most of these where Queen Mary is shown wearing the Delhi Durbar tiara show the tiara with emeralds. Secondly, during the war years formal portraits of HM were not released.
In 2008 on RJWMB Boffer did a very detailed analysis of the changes to the tiara and the various configurations; however, based on information from Roberts and the Royal Collection site, he thought that the version in the photo published in the Illustrated London News in 1911 was the 3rd version of the tiara made after the 1912 Garrard changes.
When I initially found an image of Queen Mary wearing the Delhi Durbar tiara published in the Illustrated London News 20 May 1911 it proved that Queen Mary wore the tiara before the Delhi Durbar and that it could be worn with the Lesser Stars of Africa before the changes made by Garrard in 1912. It also proved that the Royal Collection date of 1912 for the photos from this portrait sitting was incorrect.
The Wellcome collection has a copy of one of the photos from this sitting which has a much higher resolution.
The Wellcome image allows us to see clearly how the Lesser Stars of Africa were mounted in the tiara in 1911.
Because of a mistake in Hugh Roberts and the dating of a photo from this sitting by Thomson by the Royal Collection, it had been assumed that it was only in 1912 that the tiara was adapted to take the Lesser Stars of Africa. This is not so. From the outset the tiara could be fitted with the Lesser Stars - or as some refer to the diamonds, Cullinan III and IV.
In The Queen's Diamonds page 178 foot note 6 shows that in 1912 Garrard made 2 adjustments to the Delhi Durbar tiara.
Robert's foot note
The first alteration in March 1912 allowed the Lesser Stars of Africa to be mounted within the tiara in a different setting, allowing Cullinan III to fit within the tiara instead of surmounting it and for Cullinan IV to hang on the diagonal instead of appearing as a square.
The definition of the 1930 photo which J-F found allows us to see more clearly how the new setting for the Cullinans was done.
The major change involved how Cullinan III was mounted. Part of the original tiara in the centre had to be made detachable and a modified element created. What I am saying is that Cullinan III did not simply hang over the existing setting.
However the jewellers did this new setting, it was detachable, as later the tiara is seen with the original central setting.
The earliest photos showing Queen Mary with the Lesser Stars of Africa worn within the tiara are I think from the Belgian State visit in 1922 (see Thomas' photo)
Although we don't have photos of the changes made in 1912 until a later date, I think that from 1912 the Lesser Stars of Africa were always worn in this manner. One of the things which has probably confused jewellery lovers is the paucity of photos from this period. The newspapers indicate that Queen Mary wore the tiara with the Lesser Stars of Africa frequently, but we have no photos of HM at the numerous Courts; we have only the formal portrait sittings which were done by various photographers. Most of these where Queen Mary is shown wearing the Delhi Durbar tiara show the tiara with emeralds. Secondly, during the war years formal portraits of HM were not released.
In 2008 on RJWMB Boffer did a very detailed analysis of the changes to the tiara and the various configurations; however, based on information from Roberts and the Royal Collection site, he thought that the version in the photo published in the Illustrated London News in 1911 was the 3rd version of the tiara made after the 1912 Garrard changes.
Hugh Roberts' foot note 6 on page 178 of The Queen's Diamonds shows that Garrard made 2 changes to the Delhi Durbar tiara in 1912. The first involved how Cullinan III and IV were fitted.
The second change in May 1912 involved a fitting for Cullinan IV to be worn when Queen Mary wore the tiara with the Cambridge emeralds as surmounts.
When Queen Mary wore the tiara in 1911 to various functions associated with the Coronation and for the Delhi Durbar the tiara had in the lower portion of the centre of the tiara an element comprising a line of small diamonds with a diamond cluster as a pendant.
As worn to the Delhi Durbar.
In May 1912 Garrard made a fitting so that Cullinan IV could be worn instead of the existing lower element in the centre of the tiara. For this the Cullinan was set diagonally.
According to the Illustrated London News 4 May 1935 the photo below was taken in 1923
According to the National Portrait Gallery UK the photo below was taken in 1926.
The Royal Collection has dated this photo to 1921.
While Queen Mary appears to have been photographed wearing Cullinan IV with the emeralds as surmounts, she kept the original central setting of the tiara so that she could wear it while at the same time wearing Cullinan III and IV as a brooch/stomacher.
For the French state visit of 1939 Queen Mary appears to have worn the Delhi Durbar tiara twice: once for the gala evening at the opera and again for a banquet at the French Embassy.
At the Opera gala she wore Cullinan III and IV as a stomacher and, although we cannot see clearly, I presume that the tiara was worn with the original central element even though HM did not wear the emeralds as surmounts on the tiara.
Entering the French Embassy 1939
When Queen Mary gave the tiara to Queen Elizabeth the Queen Mother for the South African tour in 1947 the tiara had the original central element as well as the top row of diamonds, which have since been removed.
Hey! I lost my password too and just found it, So many interesting threads. This in particular!!!
Previous Message
Hugh Roberts' foot note 6 on page 178 of The Queen's Diamonds shows that Garrard made 2 changes to the Delhi Durbar tiara in 1912. The first involved how Cullinan III and IV were fitted.
The second change in May 1912 involved a fitting for Cullinan IV to be worn when Queen Mary wore the tiara with the Cambridge emeralds as surmounts.
When Queen Mary wore the tiara in 1911 to various functions associated with the Coronation and for the Delhi Durbar the tiara had in the lower portion of the centre of the tiara an element comprising a line of small diamonds with a diamond cluster as a pendant.
As worn to the Delhi Durbar.
In May 1912 Garrard made a fitting so that Cullinan IV could be worn instead of the existing lower element in the centre of the tiara. For this the Cullinan was set diagonally.
According to the Illustrated London News 4 May 1935 the photo below was taken in 1923
According to the National Portrait Gallery UK the photo below was taken in 1926.
The Royal Collection has dated this photo to 1921.
While Queen Mary appears to have been photographed wearing Cullinan IV with the emeralds as surmounts, she kept the original central setting of the tiara so that she could wear it while at the same time wearing Cullinan III and IV as a brooch/stomacher.
For the French state visit of 1939 Queen Mary appears to have worn the Delhi Durbar tiara twice: once for the gala evening at the opera and again for a banquet at the French Embassy.
At the Opera gala she wore Cullinan III and IV as a stomacher and, although we cannot see clearly, I presume that the tiara was worn with the original central element even though HM did not wear the emeralds as surmounts on the tiara.
Entering the French Embassy 1939
When Queen Mary gave the tiara to Queen Elizabeth the Queen Mother for the South African tour in 1947 the tiara had the original central element as well as the top row of diamonds, which have since been removed.
- her long diamond sautoir ; - The Duchess of Teck's collet necklace ; - Queen Alexandra's collet necklace ; - Maybe her collet necklace given as a wedding gift in 1893 ; - The diamond collet necklace she has worn with the ruby and diamond aigrette + for the coronation
Franck
Previous Message
Hey! I lost my password too and just found it, So many interesting threads. This in particular!!!
Previous Message
Hugh Roberts' foot note 6 on page 178 of The Queen's Diamonds shows that Garrard made 2 changes to the Delhi Durbar tiara in 1912. The first involved how Cullinan III and IV were fitted.
The second change in May 1912 involved a fitting for Cullinan IV to be worn when Queen Mary wore the tiara with the Cambridge emeralds as surmounts.
When Queen Mary wore the tiara in 1911 to various functions associated with the Coronation and for the Delhi Durbar the tiara had in the lower portion of the centre of the tiara an element comprising a line of small diamonds with a diamond cluster as a pendant.
As worn to the Delhi Durbar.
In May 1912 Garrard made a fitting so that Cullinan IV could be worn instead of the existing lower element in the centre of the tiara. For this the Cullinan was set diagonally.
According to the Illustrated London News 4 May 1935 the photo below was taken in 1923
According to the National Portrait Gallery UK the photo below was taken in 1926.
The Royal Collection has dated this photo to 1921.
While Queen Mary appears to have been photographed wearing Cullinan IV with the emeralds as surmounts, she kept the original central setting of the tiara so that she could wear it while at the same time wearing Cullinan III and IV as a brooch/stomacher.
For the French state visit of 1939 Queen Mary appears to have worn the Delhi Durbar tiara twice: once for the gala evening at the opera and again for a banquet at the French Embassy.
At the Opera gala she wore Cullinan III and IV as a stomacher and, although we cannot see clearly, I presume that the tiara was worn with the original central element even though HM did not wear the emeralds as surmounts on the tiara.
Entering the French Embassy 1939
When Queen Mary gave the tiara to Queen Elizabeth the Queen Mother for the South African tour in 1947 the tiara had the original central element as well as the top row of diamonds, which have since been removed.
Welcome back Thomas and thanks for this splendid post on the QM Delhi Durbar tiara. I have stated that I would love to see the emeralds positioned on the tiara again. QM's collet necklaces are just profoundly noticeable and I would like to ask if anyone knows if the magnificent suiter necklace is still around?
Regards,
Dave.
Previous Message
Dear all, since I have just (at long last!) recovered the files from my old computer, including my password to the board, I am finally able to react on the many interesting discussions that I could only read, and not comment, until now.
This picture J.-F. posted (of Queen Mary wearing Queen Victoria’s Diamond Bracelet) triggered my interest, as it was entirely new to me.
As Franck mentioned, this exceptional combination of jewels wasn’t (to the best of my knowledge) known to us, either in portraiture or from photographs.
The juxtaposition of large rivières with the great sautoir truly highlights the huge size of these diamonds.
I'm not sure I recognise the other bracelet, does anyone?
Likewise, this particular setting of the Durbar tiara (RCIN 250528), complete of its original closing line on top, and boasting the Cullinans III and IV as an integral part of the design completely changed my appreciation of this tiara.
This very harmonious form of the Durbar tiara seemed new to me, until I realized that Queen Mary had worn it as early as 1922, for the state Visit of King Albert I and Queen Elizabeth of the Belgians, as seen in this contemporary postcard:
The portrait shared by J.-F. was taken by Hay Wrightson, circa 1930. I tracked down the source of this press photograph, which was sold by IMS Vintage Photos, Stockholm. The back of the image provides interesting insight about the portrait, which seems to have pleased the Queen very much indeed. Wrightson photographed Queen Mary on many occasions until his death in 1949.
I have found two further occurrences of this portrait: both are signed by the Queen, with the years 1931 and 1933 respectively.
The one from 1931 was used as a formal presentation portrait adressed to Percival Griffiths, Esq., in a lavish silver-gilt frame by Garrard & Co., London (Sold Freeman's Auctions, Philadelphia, 18 Oct. 2016, $6,250).
The second (sold on eBay) bears a small autograph note on the back.
This portrait now ranks amongst my favourite images of Queen Mary!
The magnificent sautoir which was worn frequently by Queen Mary featured in The Queen's Diamonds by Hugh Roberts and the modern photograph indicates that the jewel still exists. I have never seen a photo showing QEII wearing it at public events, but it is possible that HM uses it privately.
When Queen Mary had the sautoir made in 1929 it was designed to transform into 2 necklaces (and I think a bracelet also). Queen Mary sometimes wore it as 2 necklace for day time events.
As a sautoir
As 2 necklaces for day wear.
At the last garden party associated with the coronation season in 1937
At the Guildhall reception to welcome home the King and Queen from the North American tour in 1939
on March 13, 2019, 5:54 am
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