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Cartier kokoshnik tiara with onyx
Posted by Beth on May 27, 2019, 2:15 pm
I stumbled upon this photo of Marie Helene de Rothschild wearing what I think is the Cartier kokoshnik tiara with the onyx tree pattern. According to Getty the photo was taken during the wedding festivities for Princess Caroline of Monaco in 1978.
Queries.
1. Is this the Cartier tiara made in 1914 and displayed regularly in Cartier exhibitions? I cannot imagine that 2 such jewels were made.
If it is the same jewel, when was it sold to Cartier (or when did the firm re-acquire it)? I cannot find an auction date.
Hans Nadelhoffer mentions it and has a photo in his book. My copy is a 2007 edition and so it may not be in the original 1984 edition, if the jewel was acquired after the death of Marie Helene de Rothschild in 1996.
The catalgoue from the Canberra Cartier exhibition notes that the jewel is now owned by Cartier.
A beautiful art of work I have seen a few times and wondered about.
Regards,
Dave.
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I stumbled upon this photo of Marie Helene de Rothschild wearing what I think is the Cartier kokoshnik tiara with the onyx tree pattern. According to Getty the photo was taken during the wedding festivities for Princess Caroline of Monaco in 1978.
Queries.
1. Is this the Cartier tiara made in 1914 and displayed regularly in Cartier exhibitions? I cannot imagine that 2 such jewels were made.
If it is the same jewel, when was it sold to Cartier (or when did the firm re-acquire it)? I cannot find an auction date.
Hans Nadelhoffer mentions it and has a photo in his book. My copy is a 2007 edition and so it may not be in the original 1984 edition, if the jewel was acquired after the death of Marie Helene de Rothschild in 1996.
The catalgoue from the Canberra Cartier exhibition notes that the jewel is now owned by Cartier.
By the way the brooch seen here bears a stricking ressemblance to the devant de corsage that belonged to Queen Victoria Eugénie of Spain, the one left to her son Don Jaime.
What an incredible find Thomas!! Thank you so much for posting the link. The level of detail seen with the magnification facility is superb. I think we can safely say that this jewel was owned by Marie Helene de Rothschild at some time.
Thomas' find sent me hunting for more images. Most are far too low resolution to see anything much, although knowing the occasion helped me to see more of her other jewels, especially the hair jewel.
Thomas, I would like to do a separate thread to see if we can ascertain if the large diamond brooch is part of the one which belonged to Queen Ena.
I wonder how the tiara was attached when worn as a chocker? In the pictures I have seen it doesn't seem to be articulated, so it must have been quite incomfortable to wear.
The brooch, although it resembles the main element in the Cartier devant de corsage that belonged to Queen Victoria Eugénie of Spain, is different.
I wonder how the tiara was attached when worn as a chocker? In the pictures I have seen it doesn't seem to be articulated, so it must have been quite incomfortable to wear.
There at least two lines where the jewel's bending can be adjusted. They are visible after the next pearl but one on the left and right of the central pearl on top and closely follow the pattern of diamonds and onyx-inlays. I assume there are at least two additional lines further back.
One of these lines is also visible in a larger version of the picture of Marie-Hélène de Rothschild and Salvador Dali.
I am always amazed at Mauriz's ability to work out how jewels are constructed.
I wonder how long it took the designer and craft jewellers to ascertain precisely where to put the breaks so that the jewel could be worn as a tiara or a choker?
What is intriguing me is how the break operates. On the right hand side (of the first photo posted by Mauriz) it appears to go behind the larger onyx leaf shape; yet, the other larger onyx "leaf" stones appear to be one single stone. How I would love to handle this jewel to see how it all works. When I saw it in Canberra I didn't realise it could be used as a choker and so I didn't make any attempt to take a photo which captured the details or the rear of the jewel. This is another one of those "I wish..." situations.
on May 27, 2019, 2:15 pm
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