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I thought I would start a new thread to avoid confusion. (But I have never collected much information on the Marlborough jewels -- so my knowledge is sketchy)
I think that what Dave was asking about is called a shoulder brooch. They seemed to be popular in the late 1920s and 1930s - but this is not something I have done any searching on, so I may have the term and the dates incorrect. If so, could some one help us on this, please?
Below are some more photos of the Duchess of Marlborough wearing these "brooches". I have inverted commas around the word brooches as I am not 100% sure that they were used only as brooches.
1937
1937
The smaller of the brooches with drops pinned to the shoulder of Her Grace's gown.
A smaller brooch with drops pinned at the waist, 1936.
The same newspaper which carried the photos dated 1937 (on the same date) had this to say about the Duchess' jewels
1937
so, at present, I am assuming that the brooches were emeralds. (I have never followed up on this)
Where did such emeralds come from? At present I am guessing that they came from the then Duchess' mother-in-law, as she was said to have owned large emeralds. (This is another thing which I have never done more research on) Does anyone know?
Re: Marlborough jewels - Pendant Brooch on shoulder (Perhaps)
Posted by Maridje on August 8, 2019, 9:34 pm, in reply to "Marlborough jewels"
ALEXANDRA CADOGAN 10TH Dchss of MALBOROUGH - 1937
Perhaps she wear a part of amethyst sautoir / belt. like Marjorie Merriweather 1929. "Epaulette". Cartier
Maridje
Re: Marlborough jewels - Tiara Empress Alexandra Feodorovna
A SUPERB GROUP OF ART DECO AMETHYST AND DIAMOND NECKLACES
Price Realized $125,100
Estimate. $50,000 - $70,000
Comprising three necklaces, each composed of slightly graduated oval-cut amethysts, spaced by twin rectangular-cut amethyst or old mine-cut diamond square links, enhanced by old mine-cut diamond bar links, one joined by a similarly-set circular link, mounted in 18k gold, circa 1925, 14¼, 18 and 23¼ ins. (3)
Provenance The Collection of Gladys Deacon, Duchess of Marlborough (1881-1977) Sold Christie's London, "A Casket of Highly Important Jewels: The Property of the late Gladys Marie, Dowager Duchess of Marlborough", 5 July 1978, lot 80
Composed of thirty-six graduated oval-shaped amethyst collets interspersed with twin rectangular- cut amethysts or twin diamond-set bar links, can be styled as a belt, or detached and worn as three necklaces of varying lengths, mounted in gold, total length 140.0 cm (3)
Provenance 'A Casket of Highly Important Jewels: The Property of the late Gladys Marie, Dowager Duchess of Marlborough', Christie's London, 5 July 1978, lot 80.
Lot Notes A year after she died at the age of 97, 'A Casket of Highly Important Jewels' that had been the property of Gladys Marie, Dowager Duchess of Marlborough, came to auction at Christie's on 5 July 1978. This sale reminded everyone of the woman who once had inspired writers like Marcel Proust, who wrote after their first meeting in 1907: 'I never saw a girl with such beauty, such magnificent intelligence, such goodness and charm.' Those who knew her in her youth agreed with Proust that she was extraordinary attractive, and for years she was pursued by many of the most eligible bachelors in Europe. But it was not until her fortieth year that she finally married the 9th Duke of Marlborough.
Gladys was born in Paris in 1881, the progeny of two well-established and extremely wealthy American families, the Deacons and the Baldwins. Her parents, Edward and Florence Deacon, were part of the fashionable American set who made their base in Europe and thrived on the high social lifestyle on both side of the Atlantic. Gladys was the eldest of four sisters and grew to be the most beautiful and most intelligent of them all. From her mother she had inherited not only her striking looks but also her deep passion for the arts. Her early years were spent in the company of the best of European and American society and the elite of the artistic world.
The 1978 sale of her casket described lot 80 as an 'Important Amethyst and Diamond Belt Ornament'. The long chains of amethysts and diamonds were originally part of a sumptuous sautoir first ordered by Gladys in 1926 from Cartier, London. During this period, Cartier was creating wonderful interpretations of this extremely fashionable jewel.
The first design of this sautoir was a long chain of oval amethysts connected by links of baton-shaped amethysts and diamonds, and the clasp was designed as an open circle set with calibré- cut turquoises and diamonds, connected by an amethyst-set fob attachment.
From Cartier's records, it is clear that the Marlboroughs supplied the 34 larger amethysts and four diamonds, previously set in a brooch. The turquoises and the baton-shaped amethysts, together with a further nearly 20 carats of diamonds weresupplied by Cartier. The clasp of this sautoir, was sold as a brooch.
In 1928, Gladys had the sautoir altered yet again so it could be worn as a two row necklace together with detachable diamond panels. Although modified several times through the years, this versatile sautoir is still today set with the magnificent amethysts of the Duchess of Marlborough. The first design of this sautoir was a long chain of oval amethysts connected by links of baton-shaped amethysts and diamonds, and the clasp was designed as an open circle set with calibré- cut turquoises and diamonds, connected by an amethyst-set fob attachment.
From Cartier's records, it is clear that the Marlboroughs supplied the 34 larger amethysts and four diamonds, previously set in a brooch.
The turquoises and the baton-shaped amethysts, together with a further nearly 20 carats of diamonds weresupplied by Cartier.
The clasp of this sautoir, was sold as a brooch.
In 1928, Gladys had the sautoir altered yet again so it could be worn as a two row necklace together with detachable diamond panels. Although modified several times through the years, this versatile sautoir is still today set with the magnificent amethysts of the Duchess of Marlborough.
Text from the book 'Famous Jewelry Collectors, Thames & Hudson, 1999. Courtesy of Mr Stefano Papi.
MAGNIFICENT JEWELS AND NOBLE JEWELS 15 NOVEMBER 2018 - GENEVA
Lot 442
FORMERLY IN THE COLLECTION OF GLADYS DEACON, DUCHESS OF MARLBOROUGH
Amethyst, turquoise and diamond necklace, Cartier, circa 1915 Estimate 20,000 — 30,000 CHF LOT SOLD. 162,500 CHF
Amethyst, turquoise and diamond necklace, Cartier, circa 1915 Designed as a vase of flowers, set with a pear-shaped amethyst and a cabochon turquoise accented with similarly cut amethyst and circular-cut diamonds, on a cord necklet with onyx and diamond rondelle terminals, signed Cartier, numbered, French maker's mark.
PROVENANCE A Casket of Highly Important Jewels, The Property of the late Gladys Marie, Dowager Duchess of Marlborough, Christie's, London, July 1978, lot 73.
LITERATURE Cf.: Stefano Papi & Alexandra Rhodes, Famous Jewellery Collectors, Thames & Hudson, London, pg. 77 for an illustration of this necklace.
CATALOGUE NOTE Gladys, Duchess of Marlborough
Born in 1881 in Paris the eldest of four daughters of Edward and Florence Deacon, the well-established, extremely wealthy Americans, Gladys grew up to be the most intelligent and most beautiful of the sisters. Marcel Proust wrote after meeting her “I never saw a girl with such beauty, such magnificent intelligence, such goodness and charm.”
It was during a trip to London in 1898, that Gladys first met the Duke of Marlborough. He and his American-born wife, Consuelo Vanderbilt, succumbed to Gladys’ charm and immediately invited her to their home, Blenheim Palace in Oxfordshire. It was the beginning of a strong friendship. It was not long after, in 1907, that the marriage of the Marlboroughs’ ended in legal separation followed by divorce fourteen years later. By this time, Gladys had become the Duke’s mistress and promptly accepted his marriage proposal.
It was during the 1920s and early 1930s that she acquired some truly wonderful jewels such as those offered here for sale.
The marriage of the Marlboroughs ended in divorce in 1933 and Gladys disappeared from the limelight and social arena.
Many thanks Maridje. The emerald brooch of Marjorie Merriweather Post is the style of jewel I was thinking of.
I doubt if the 1937 photo of the Duchess of Marlborough shows her wearing part of the amethyst sautoir. The auction notes show that the amethysts formed part of the estate of Gladys Deacon, Duchess of Marlborough, so presumably it was a privately owned item which she kept with her after the death of the 9th Duke in early 1934. If the press report I found is accurate, then the Duchess was wearing emeralds.
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ALEXANDRA CADOGAN 10TH Dchss of MALBOROUGH - 1937 Perhaps she wear a part of amethyst sautoir / belt. like Marjorie Merriweather 1929. "Epaulette". Cartier
I have read that this tiara was made by Boucheron. I don't have access to a copy of Vincent Meylan's book; however, I wonder if he discussed this tiara and provided any details?
I am interested in knowing if the tiara was originally meant to be worn in two ways -- as a circlet and as a more conventionally sized tiara?
It looks as if by at least 1937 the then Duchess of Marlborough wore it in a more conventional tiara form.
Dear Beth, you are right. This is definitely Boucheron. The coronet was bought by William Kissam Vanderbilt for his wife Alva in 1890. Actually it is rather similar in style to the coronet bought by the future emperor Nicolas II for Alexandra feodorova, also at Boucheron, a few years later. These coronet were called « serre chignon » as they were usually placed on the top of the very sophisticated hairdo of the ladies of that time. The coronet with 2 ropes of big pearls were the wedding gift of Alva Vanderbilt to her daughter, Consuelo, when she married the duke of Marlborough in 1895. Consuelo herself brought the coronet back to Boucheron in 1913 in order to have it transformed in a bandeau. Huge chignon were out of fashion then.
Thank you Vincent! Would you believe that I cannot find a copy of your book on Boucheron in any library in my city?
So by the time Alexandra Mary Cadogan married the 10th Duke in 1920 the jewel was already in a conventional tiara form.
Perhaps the pearls which Consuelo Vanderbilt gave to her daughter-in-law as a wedding gift were part of those from Boucheron. They were worn very frequently by Alexandra Mary Cadogan.
Tiara and pearls at the Opening of Parliament in 1924.
At the time many society ladies were wearing their tiaras over a fabric headband, and I think that this has created a different look to the tiara in the published photos. The Duchess, then the Marchioness of Blandford, was photographed with her sister who also wore a fabric headband.
According to the press, on her wedding day Alexandra Mary Cadogan wore the pearls given to her by Consuelo Vanderbilt.
Re: Marlborough jewels. More pictures of the tiara
I read somewhere that lots of the jewels belonging to the Dukes of Marlborough were sold by one duke and same were actively searched for by another duke and retained for the family. I also read that they retain a set of gems of every stone and it is very outstanding.
Regards,
Dave.
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Thank you Vincent! Would you believe that I cannot find a copy of your book on Boucheron in any library in my city?
So by the time Alexandra Mary Cadogan married the 10th Duke in 1920 the jewel was already in a conventional tiara form.
Perhaps the pearls which Consuelo Vanderbilt gave to her daughter-in-law as a wedding gift were part of those from Boucheron. They were worn very frequently by Alexandra Mary Cadogan.
Tiara and pearls at the Opening of Parliament in 1924.
At the time many society ladies were wearing their tiaras over a fabric headband, and I think that this has created a different look to the tiara in the published photos. The Duchess, then the Marchioness of Blandford, was photographed with her sister who also wore a fabric headband.
According to the press, on her wedding day Alexandra Mary Cadogan wore the pearls given to her by Consuelo Vanderbilt.