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Lady Julia Carew
Posted by Dave on August 29, 2019, 8:06 pm
The jewels in the below picture are simple yet outstanding. The small tiara although small along with the hair ornament stands out and the lower necklace with the pendant. I invite others to debate this.
Posted by OmerH on September 3, 2019, 3:40 am, in reply to "Lady Julia Carew"
Thank you dear Dave for bringing these little known jewels to our attention. I sooo wish there was a colour photo to find out what the gems are in her tiara and necklace.
The pendant on the necklace is almost identical to the Kent amethyst brooch that is part of the Kent demi-parure owned by Queen Elizabeth II.
The tiara could also be worn as a bodice ornament as seen here for the coronation.
In the first picture under the central star brooch and in the coronation picture on her necklace Lady Julia is wearing a very important jewel the "Carew Spinel". It was a Mughal jewel with the names of Emperors Shah Jahan & Aurangzeb Alamgir carved into it. In 1922 it was gifted to the V & A in London where it is displayed now a days.
Posted by Beth on September 3, 2019, 8:05 am, in reply to "Re: Lady Julia Carew"
The coloured stones in the tiara, the spray worn on the side of Lady Carew's head and the necklace are emeralds.
They were family jewels which she wore for her wedding in June 1888.
And also for her presentation at Court as a married lady in 1889.
I suspect that the emeralds were Carew family jewels (as opposed to her birth family: Lethbridge), because there are reports of the Dowager Lady Carew wearing emeralds at Court functions.
Dowager Lady Carew at a Court Drawing Room in June 1865 wearing emeralds.
According to the National Portrait Gallery UK the image below was published in 1889, so around the time of the Court Presentation.
The Carew Spinel is, of course, ruby coloured, so when combined with emeralds, Julia Carew would have presented a colourful sight. It was a Lethbridge family piece. Julia Carew left it to her sister for use in her life and then to the South Kensington Museum. (Obviously Julia Carew's will was written before the Museum was split in two and the V & A became a separate identity.)
Some more information on the emeralds and the spinel.
Julia Carew received the spinel from her mother as a wedding gift,
as well as the earrings and the diamond shamrock brooch from her husband. The shamrock brooch was frequently mentioned in the press as being worn to day time events, particularly those linked to Irish events.
I am sure that, some where I read, that the diamond butterfly brooch was also a wedding gift, but I cannot find that cutting at present.
None of these appears to have descended through the subsequent heirs to the title. (Julia and her husband didn't have any children.) The next Lady Carew who appeared wearing evening jewels in press photos was Sylvia, Lady Carew.
Initially, I thought that the diamond stars in her tiara were those worn by Julia Carew, but closer examination proved that they are very different stars.
Sylvia at the 1953 Coronation.
Sylvia in 1938.
If I get more time today, I will explain what has happened to most of the major jewels worn by Julia Carew.
Re: Lady Julia Carew
Posted by Dave on September 3, 2019, 8:43 am, in reply to "Re: Lady Julia Carew"
What an interesting background to the topic at captioned OmerH and Beth. I doubt you guys on here understand the amount of literary and research contributions you make in one go. Such an enticing club of education and learning.
Regards,
Dave.
Previous Message
The coloured stones in the tiara, the spray worn on the side of Lady Carew's head and the necklace are emeralds.
They were family jewels which she wore for her wedding in June 1888.
And also for her presentation at Court as a married lady in 1889.
I suspect that the emeralds were Carew family jewels (as opposed to her birth family: Lethbridge), because there are reports of the Dowager Lady Carew wearing emeralds at Court functions.
Dowager Lady Carew at a Court Drawing Room in June 1865 wearing emeralds.
According to the National Portrait Gallery UK the image below was published in 1889, so around the time of the Court Presentation.
The Carew Spinel is, of course, ruby coloured, so when combined with emeralds, Julia Carew would have presented a colourful sight. It was a Lethbridge family piece. Julia Carew left it to her sister for use in her life and then to the South Kensington Museum. (Obviously Julia Carew's will was written before the Museum was split in two and the V & A became a separate identity.)
Some more information on the emeralds and the spinel.
Julia Carew received the spinel from her mother as a wedding gift,
as well as the earrings and the diamond shamrock brooch from her husband. The shamrock brooch was frequently mentioned in the press as being worn to day time events, particularly those linked to Irish events.
I am sure that, some where I read, that the diamond butterfly brooch was also a wedding gift, but I cannot find that cutting at present.
None of these appears to have descended through the subsequent heirs to the title. (Julia and her husband didn't have any children.) The next Lady Carew who appeared wearing evening jewels in press photos was Sylvia, Lady Carew.
Initially, I thought that the diamond stars in her tiara were those worn by Julia Carew, but closer examination proved that they are very different stars.
Sylvia at the 1953 Coronation.
Sylvia in 1938.
If I get more time today, I will explain what has happened to most of the major jewels worn by Julia Carew.
Re: Lady Julia Carew. Jewels at V & A
Posted by Beth on September 3, 2019, 3:11 pm, in reply to "Re: Lady Julia Carew"
When Julia Carew died in 1922 she left her estate to her husband. When he died in 1923 he left his unsettled (not controlled by trusts, or entailed) property to Julia's sister, Lady Cory, (Jane) wife of Sir Clifford Cory, a very wealthy Welsh coal mine owner/merchant. The Corys lived together for only 3 months, then had a legal separation, after which Jane Cory appears to have lived with her sister and brother-in-law. Money doesn't appear to have an issue as when Jane Cory died in February 1941 she left GBP 280,005/18/5. All of her jewels, which by then included those of her sister, were left to the V & A.
The jewels are referred to as the Cory bequest and the V & A says they were given in 1951. Yet, Jane Cory died in 1947, and the Museum of New Zealand, which holds some very famous tapestry work which was part of the bequest (but unwanted by the V & A), says it received the tapestries in 1948, so I suspect there is a typo in the V & A's material.
Jane Cory was noted for her elaborate Victorian jewels, some of which were probably given as wedding presents.
For her wedding she wore
and received
I realised when re-reading this list that the diamond and pearl butterfly brooch was a gift from Lord and Lady Carew to her, so I think it is highly likely that the brooch which can be seen in Julia Carew's coronation portrait belonged to her sister.
I found the photo below on the net. It was given a date of 1925. The photo was also used in newspapers in the 1930s.
In this photo one of the large diamond sprays worn by Julia Carew can be seen in the V formed by Jane Cory's arm. Because Julia Carew was photographed wearing this before her sister's wedding, I strongly suspect that the jewel belonged to Julia Carew.
It is possible that Lord Carew either sold or gave away the jewels before his death. His grand mansion in Ireland was fired in 1923, and it is possible that, during the turbulence around the time of independence for Eire, his revenues from his Irish estate were reduced, prompting a sale of some non-income producing assets.
Equally, it is possible that Jane Cory sold or gave the jewels to others. I noticed one intriguing item in the press in 1937 saying she had already given some eighteenth century jewels to museums.
Most interesting, Beth! And thank you, Dave, for bringing it up.
Among the most valuable items of the rather large Cory bequest – I found it particularly interesting how many colourful and artisanal pieces were included in the sisters's collection, both gemstones and paste – is the set of 46 dress ornaments made for Catherine the Great in 1764 and sold by the Bolshevik government after the Russian Revolution of 1917.
The suite originally included a necklace and bracelets and combined the diamond parts with strung garnet beads.
While the V&A has the dress ornaments photographed in groups of six (and one shot of the whole group) the inventory of the Cory bequest shows them assembled as a (rather long) necklace or girdle.
The three bow brooches above the assembled necklace are probably Russian as well, but they "are not listed in the Diamond Fund catalogue compiled at the order of the Bolshevik government and they were not amongst that part of the Russian royal jewellery sold by a syndicate at Christie's on 16 March 1927. However, Dr. S. A. Amelekhina (State Museums of the Moscow Kremlin) states that the Diamond Fund Catalogue is known to have been incomplete."
The numbers in the inventory of the Cory bequest are all ending with "1951", so I suspect it took a while until the obviously very comprehensive collection was properly inventoried after it was bequeathed in 1947.
A private website of the extended Cory family has a short account of a visit to the V&A with a reference to a photo of Lady Cory in the museum's collection where she's "wearing all her diamonds – the tiara, 3 bows, both corsages, 46 paisley leaf pieces, necklace, and earrings and she looks magnificent – every inch a lady." Unfortunately this seems to be one of the photos the V&A hasn't made accessible online.
As Beth already has pointed out, both Lethbridge sisters were passionate and accomplished textile artists, trained at the Royal School of Needlework in London. Among the scarce portraits of Jane Cory available online is one that shows her with a rather peculiar embroidered casket. I think she's wearing (possibly a modified version of) the black enameled necklace (without the pearl tassels) and the locket now in the V&A.
Re: Cory bequest to V&A
Posted by Beth on September 4, 2019, 6:49 am, in reply to "Cory bequest to V&A"
Fascinating! Thank you so much Mauriz! The shuttle shaped ornaments made for Catherine the Great are amazing. I wonder if they were always capable of being arranged as a necklace, or if that was an innovation introduced by Jane Cory? The necklace arrangement makes for a more wearable jewel.
I have no doubt that these jewels were purchased by Jane Cory.
Another jewel which intrigues me is the brooch which looks like a royal monogram. I think it is a GR, but am not sure.
Has anyone got any thoughts on this?
Seen on the left hand side (as we view the photo) in this photo of Julia Carew.
In the V & A inventory page posted by Mauriz the brooch has an invoice number of M88-1951.
Unfortunately the V&A website doesn't cover the brooch at all, but since it's a baron's coronet above the monogram – might it be JC for the wearer's initials?
Re: Cory bequest to V&A
Posted by Dave on September 4, 2019, 7:44 am, in reply to "Cory bequest to V&A"
Thank you mauriz, this topic seems to run deeper than originally thought. The jewels seen remind of some photos I have seen of the French royal family jewels. Does anyone know who made these pieces and if they have any royal provenance? Did you notice the central bracelet with the large colored oval stone? The elements that make up the necklace is just brilliant and outstanding.
Regards,
Dave.
Previous Message
Most interesting, Beth! And thank you, Dave, for bringing it up.
Among the most valuable items of the rather large Cory bequest – I found it particularly interesting how many colourful and artisanal pieces were included in the sisters's collection, both gemstones and paste – is the set of 46 dress ornaments made for Catherine the Great in 1764 and sold by the Bolshevik government after the Russian Revolution of 1917.
The suite originally included a necklace and bracelets and combined the diamond parts with strung garnet beads.
While the V&A has the dress ornaments photographed in groups of six (and one shot of the whole group) the inventory of the Cory bequest shows them assembled as a (rather long) necklace or girdle.
The three bow brooches above the assembled necklace are probably Russian as well, but they "are not listed in the Diamond Fund catalogue compiled at the order of the Bolshevik government and they were not amongst that part of the Russian royal jewellery sold by a syndicate at Christie's on 16 March 1927. However, Dr. S. A. Amelekhina (State Museums of the Moscow Kremlin) states that the Diamond Fund Catalogue is known to have been incomplete."
The numbers in the inventory of the Cory bequest are all ending with "1951", so I suspect it took a while until the obviously very comprehensive collection was properly inventoried after it was bequeathed in 1947.
A private website of the extended Cory family has a short account of a visit to the V&A with a reference to a photo of Lady Cory in the museum's collection where she's "wearing all her diamonds – the tiara, 3 bows, both corsages, 46 paisley leaf pieces, necklace, and earrings and she looks magnificent – every inch a lady." Unfortunately this seems to be one of the photos the V&A hasn't made accessible online.
As Beth already has pointed out, both Lethbridge sisters were passionate and accomplished textile artists, trained at the Royal School of Needlework in London. Among the scarce portraits of Jane Cory available online is one that shows her with a rather peculiar embroidered casket. I think she's wearing (possibly a modified version of) the black enameled necklace (without the pearl tassels) and the locket now in the V&A.
They don't have a royal but an imperial provenance.
The dress ornaments were commissioned by Catherine the Great in 1764. The maker was Leopold Pfisterer. One of the ornaments has the year of the commission and the monogram of Pfisterer inscribed.
I quoted the V&A website in my post: "The set was formerly part of the Russian Imperial Collection. It was sold by the Bolshevik government after the Russian Revolution of 1917."
Ahh mauriz, thanks for the details of the provenance of these pieces. Isn't it funny how a not so well known family could have owned very famous jewels and nothing mentioned about it, but I guess this is where this forum comes in. I wonder if they are any descendants and if they still own or have any jewels we are discussing here now. This means their must be more Russian jewels in private collections we may yet see come to light.
Regards,
Dave.
Previous Message
They don't have a royal but an imperial provenance.
The dress ornaments were commissioned by Catherine the Great in 1764. The maker was Leopold Pfisterer. One of the ornaments has the year of the commission and the monogram of Pfisterer inscribed.
I quoted the V&A website in my post: "The set was formerly part of the Russian Imperial Collection. It was sold by the Bolshevik government after the Russian Revolution of 1917."
Dress ornaments
The bow brooches are not signed, but a Russian origin has been suggested.
1. Neither Julia Carew or her sister Jane (Annie) Cory had children, so there are no descendants who would be wearing their jewels. It is possible that either either sister gave some of the jewels we have seen in photos to other relatives or friends, but I have not seen these jewels in photos. In reality, the latter comment proves nothing but my ignorance!
Most of the jewels we have been discussing (but not the emeralds or the diamond rivieres) are today in the Victoria and Albert Museum.
Perhaps the emerald tiara etc which we have seen on Julia Carew is in that collection at the London Museum; perhaps not.
2. The bracelet Dave asked about.
If my eye has not deceived me (as everyone knows it often does!) I think that the bracelet is the one shown below, which has a large amethyst as the clasp/centre piece.
Enlargement from the image Mauriz posted from the V & A's inventory.
I think that bracelet is this one (I have rotated the V & A's image for easier comparison)
Mauriz, I am absolutely stunned at what you have been able to discover (and link with images!). My eye would never have spotted the black enamel necklace with the pearl pendant in a million years. Yet, you are spot on. Congratulations!
And I am absolutely clueless about coronets and what they signify. I think that, once again, you have solved a mystery for me (and perhaps others) about the significance of the brooch I thought might be a royal monogram. Many thanks.
Thanks Beth, these jewels must be the best kept secret now knowing how outstanding they are. I am glad that we are exposing them. Thanks for the side view of the hair piece Katmax.
Regards,
Dave.
Previous Message
To answer some of Dave's questions.
1. Neither Julia Carew or her sister Jane (Annie) Cory had children, so there are no descendants who would be wearing their jewels. It is possible that either either sister gave some of the jewels we have seen in photos to other relatives or friends, but I have not seen these jewels in photos. In reality, the latter comment proves nothing but my ignorance!
Most of the jewels we have been discussing (but not the emeralds or the diamond rivieres) are today in the Victoria and Albert Museum.
Perhaps the emerald tiara etc which we have seen on Julia Carew is in that collection at the London Museum; perhaps not.
2. The bracelet Dave asked about.
If my eye has not deceived me (as everyone knows it often does!) I think that the bracelet is the one shown below, which has a large amethyst as the clasp/centre piece.
Enlargement from the image Mauriz posted from the V & A's inventory.
I think that bracelet is this one (I have rotated the V & A's image for easier comparison)
What I find most interesting regarding the Cory bequest is the large number of Biedermeier jewellery – rather unfashionable by the time the Lethbridge sisters grew up, yet they seem to have focussed on collecting these items – and an undeniable zest for colour.
Two of the most unique pieces are the aigrette, made in France around 1810 and later altered for more coloured stones, and the necklace of coloured pastes set in silver-gilt, made in Britain 1800-50.
The coloured paste piece is really something. With paste jewellery the coloured stones, especially in early pieces, are more expensive jewels. Especially among collectors today. Something like the piece shown here would be highly sought after and cost a small fortune even if the jewels aren't genuine gemstones.
Previous Message
Two of the most unique pieces are the aigrette, made in France around 1810 and later altered for more coloured stones, and the necklace of coloured pastes set in silver-gilt, made in Britain 1800-50.
I wonder and the topic keeps me thinking about the collection of the Lethbridge sisters. Seeing that the Sapphires are so pronounced, could they have some kind of Imperial or Royal Provenance seeing that the sisters seem to have collected only very high quality gems with such pedigree?
Regards,
Dave.
Previous Message
To answer some of Dave's questions.
1. Neither Julia Carew or her sister Jane (Annie) Cory had children, so there are no descendants who would be wearing their jewels. It is possible that either either sister gave some of the jewels we have seen in photos to other relatives or friends, but I have not seen these jewels in photos. In reality, the latter comment proves nothing but my ignorance!
Most of the jewels we have been discussing (but not the emeralds or the diamond rivieres) are today in the Victoria and Albert Museum.
Perhaps the emerald tiara etc which we have seen on Julia Carew is in that collection at the London Museum; perhaps not.
2. The bracelet Dave asked about.
If my eye has not deceived me (as everyone knows it often does!) I think that the bracelet is the one shown below, which has a large amethyst as the clasp/centre piece.
Enlargement from the image Mauriz posted from the V & A's inventory.
I think that bracelet is this one (I have rotated the V & A's image for easier comparison)
I have only one media report which I think refers to this necklace. It is from 1938.
See the end of the first paragraph.
Re: Lady Julia Carew
Posted by kat max on September 4, 2019, 7:55 pm, in reply to "Re: Lady Julia Carew"
some wonderful and detailed research there Beth. Here's a photo I had saved showing lady Julia's rose brooch in her hair with more detail:
and another 1902 article with some family background
Re: Lady Julia Carew
Posted by Beth on September 4, 2019, 8:21 pm, in reply to "Re: Lady Julia Carew"
Thanks Kat Max! Finding photos with higher definition is marvellous.
There are some very interesting items in that particular news report which I hope to post on very soon, when there is a lull in the broad's discussions.
on August 29, 2019, 8:06 pm
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