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Animal motifs in jewels Posted by OmerH on September 8, 2019, 4:39 am Floral motifs are rather common in jewels, often the designers taking inspiration from nature around them. However quite often for nationalistic or aesthetic reasons animal/bird motifs have also been used. I invite all me fellow esteemed posters to post pictures of animal motifs used in various jewels. However I would request if we do not post too many brooches and/or bracelets as such motifs are rather easy to find. My first contributions are: The peacock tiara of Princess Eulalia of Thurn & Taxis: Sheikha Mozah's snake necklace:

Re: Animal motifs in jewels Posted by Beth on September 8, 2019, 6:48 am, in reply to "Animal motifs in jewels" A very interesting topic OmerH! Princess Margaret wearing what I have guessed is a swan in flight. Twin crocodiles by Cartier. A Cartier snake

Re: Animal motifs in jewels. Eagles Posted by Beth on September 8, 2019, 5:51 pm, in reply to "Re: Animal motifs in jewels" Princess Mathilde Bonaparte had a diamond encrusted Imperial eagle mounted as a tiara. I think it was among the jewels auctioned after her death but I have not had time to check. I would love to see a photo with sharper definition than this one. Grand Duchess Vladimir had a pearl choker with diamond Russian Imperial eagle motifs.

Re: Animal motifs in jewels. Diamond birds Posted by Torkel on September 9, 2019, 1:25 am, in reply to "Re: Animal motifs in jewels. Eagles" The Thai royals have some jewels which looks like diamond (?) birds they wear on top of the shoulder. There is a picture of Queen Sirikit wearing two such swans, and I seem to recall Princess Sirindhorn might also have worn one.

Re: Animal motifs in jewels. Diamond birds Posted by Andrew U on September 9, 2019, 3:41 am, in reply to "Re: Animal motifs in jewels. Diamond birds" Love this topic! I love this bird tiara. Also (I know I am breaking the brooch rule but) I find these two brooches mesmerizing. Both are by amazing designers who frequently used animals in their designs. Seaman Shepps and David Webb. Previous Message The Thai royals have some jewels which looks like diamond (?) birds they wear on top of the shoulder. There is a picture of Queen Sirikit wearing two such swans, and I seem to recall Princess Sirindhorn might also have worn one.

Re: Animal motifs in jewels. Snakes and Dragons Posted by Beth on September 9, 2019, 7:44 am, in reply to "Re: Animal motifs in jewels. Diamond birds" Wonderful examples Andrew U! Both the fish brooch and the octopus would assure the wearer got plenty of attention! I don't think that either motif would be easy to incorporate into anything other than brooches. Giampiero Bodino has incorporated animal motifs into his jewellery with spectacular results. A choker featuring dragons. See the video below at 3.23 minutes. Bulgari. Snake earrings as part of an emerald necklace. See the video below at 5.45 minutes. This video from the Jewellery Editor also shows a Cartier lizard (or is it a crocodile?) with emeralds at 2.02 minutes. Giampiero Bodino snake necklace

Re: Animal motifs in jewels. Diamond birds Posted by Beth on September 9, 2019, 7:27 am, in reply to "Re: Animal motifs in jewels. Diamond birds" Welcome to the board Torkel! The Thai birds are exquisite. I wonder if they have a symbolic meaning?

Re: Animal motifs in jewels. Wallace Chan. Butterfly necklace Posted by Beth on September 9, 2019, 11:57 am, in reply to "Re: Animal motifs in jewels. Diamond birds" Wallace Chan's butterfly necklace. Another video showing some of Chan's mesmerising creations. Another (?) butterfly necklace and an eye catching fish. At approx .24 seconds in the video a glimpse of the cradle which allows the brooch to be worn on the shoulder can be seen.

Re: Animal motifs in jewels. Diamond birds Posted by Dave on September 9, 2019, 12:16 pm, in reply to "Re: Animal motifs in jewels. Diamond birds" Hope you stay on Torkel. Regards, Dave. Previous Message The Thai royals have some jewels which looks like diamond (?) birds they wear on top of the shoulder. There is a picture of Queen Sirikit wearing two such swans, and I seem to recall Princess Sirindhorn might also have worn one.

Re: Animal motifs in jewels Posted by OmerH on September 9, 2019, 9:36 pm, in reply to "Re: Animal motifs in jewels" Dear Beth do you know what material the crocodile necklace is made from? Are these yellow diamonds or gold??

Re: Animal motifs in jewels Posted by Beth on September 11, 2019, 1:44 pm, in reply to "Re: Animal motifs in jewels" According to Cartier The Exhibition, (NGA, 2018) p. 295 the crocodile necklace, now in Cartier's collection, was commissioned by Maria Felix in 1975. In the book it is very clear (due to the better photography) that the necklace uses yellow gold extensively (it is a dominant feature), emeralds, rubies and yellow diamonds. It says that there are 1023 brilliant cut fancy intense yellow diamonds (60.02 carats); 2 navette shaped emerald cabochons; 1060 emeralds (66.86 carats) and 2 ruby cabochons. The emerald crocodile has ruby eyes, while the yellow diamond crocodile has emerald eyes. The attention to detail is incredible, making the crocodiles even more menacing when viewed in reality. Most people didn't linger over that display cabinet! The photo on the Cartier website gives a better view of the necklace and the snake necklace which was also made for the actress. Cartier https://www.au.cartier.com/en-au/maison/living-heritage/cartier-collection/1/6.html Edit: Some might be interested in this article on Maria Felix and her Cartier reptile jewels https://theadventurine.com/culture/jewelry-history/the-mystery-of-maria-felixs-jewels/ Previous Message Dear Beth do you know what material the crocodile necklace is made from? Are these yellow diamonds or gold??

Re: Animal motifs in jewels Posted by mauriz on September 11, 2019, 3:32 pm, in reply to "Re: Animal motifs in jewels" Previous Message Edit: Some might be interested in this article on Maria Felix and her Cartier reptile jewels https://theadventurine.com/culture/jewelry-history/the-mystery-of-maria-felixs-jewels/ Thank you for the link! I knew next to nothing about Maria Felix and her love for reptiles. The snake hoop earrings are also quite something. And the last sentence of the crocodile necklace's image caption on the Cartier website is interesting: "Entirely articulated, the two crocodiles can be worn separately as brooches or together as a necklace. When worn around the neck, the feet can be replaced by clawless paws that will not irritate the skin."

Re: Animal motifs in jewels Posted by Dave on September 9, 2019, 12:14 pm, in reply to "Animal motifs in jewels" Wonderful topic OmerH. Didn't QV of the UK had a snake ring? I cant find a picture of it but here below are some which could be close. https://www.bing.com/images/search?view=detailV2&ccid=8MpCLi2v&id=CBB1CE7E644DC1B2B49F60B11195A5B8EAC378D0&thid=OIP.8MpCLi2v0KmX0LW4ZbozCwHaD1&mediaurl=http%3a%2f%2fwww.infobarrel.com%2fmedia%2fimage%2f115467.png&exph=468&expw=904&q=queen+victoria%27s+wedding+ring&simid=608007698469948342&selectedIndex=7 Regards, Dave. Previous Message Floral motifs are rather common in jewels, often the designers taking inspiration from nature around them. However quite often for nationalistic or aesthetic reasons animal/bird motifs have also been used. I invite all me fellow esteemed posters to post pictures of animal motifs used in various jewels. However I would request if we do not post too many brooches and/or bracelets as such motifs are rather easy to find. My first contributions are: The peacock tiara of Princess Eulalia of Thurn & Taxis: Sheikha Mozah's snake necklace:

Re: Animal motifs in jewels. Snakes, beetles and more Wallace Chan Posted by Beth on September 9, 2019, 2:41 pm, in reply to "Re: Animal motifs in jewels" Another video from the Jewellery Editor showing jewels with animal motifs. Towards the end are more views of Wallace Chan's work.

Roaring lion Posted by Thomas on September 9, 2019, 5:01 pm, in reply to "Animal motifs in jewels" What a wonderful thread! Thank you OmerH. My small contribution is a rather mesmerizing ‘Celestial Lion’ necklace, by Ingo Henn. The Pendant is a hand-carved unheated 69 ct Santa Maria aquamarine, diamonds, 18 ct white gold:

Re: Roaring lion Posted by Beth on September 9, 2019, 7:24 pm, in reply to "Roaring lion" Thank you for introducing me to Ingo Henn, Thomas. And also for introducing me to Santa Maria aquamarines. I confess my ignorance. What an enjoyable time I have had looking at Henn's work.

Re: Roaring lion Posted by Thomas on September 9, 2019, 7:41 pm, in reply to "Re: Roaring lion" I just discovered his work as well, on the occasion of the Biennale Paris which is about to open at the Grand Palais, where hopefully I'll see more pieces. I saw the Wallace Chan display a few years ago and was hugely impressed by his enchanting work.

Stag beetles Posted by mauriz on September 9, 2019, 8:29 pm, in reply to "Animal motifs in jewels" An opportunity for a foray into what is aptly called »Autorenschmuck« in German and usually translated into »studio [or art] jewellery« in English: Georg Dobler (*1952, Germany), currently professor at the University of Applied Sciences and Arts in Hildesheim, came to international prominence for his geometric and deconstructivist forms, but later focused on more naturalistic elements. His series of jewellery incorporating cast stag (and other) beetles is explicitely referring to René Lalique. Breaking the no-brooch-rule (the second image is René Lalique) – Dobler's brooches are quite sizable, between 10 and 17 centimetres in length: And duly following the rule:

Re: Animal motifs in jewels Posted by OmerH on September 9, 2019, 9:15 pm, in reply to "Stag beetles" Oh my!!!! I never realized there were so many different and unusual animals represented in jewels. Also no worries about the brooch "rule", all your pieces are great examples of the Jeweler's art. Among the current crop of Royal Ladies at least 4 different Royal Houses have such tiaras/hair ornaments. Princess Camilla of Bourbon Two Sicilies has a ruby and diamond dragonfly tiara: The Ram/Goat tiara from Albania currently worn by Crown Princess Elia The Butterfly tiara of Hereditary Princess Stephanie of Luxembourg. recently on the neighbouring board there was speculation that this tiara may be from Van Cleef & Arpels. https://members2.boardhost.com/royal-jewels/thread/1565296305.html Danish Poppies: apparently there are small bugs/spiders in the poppies. Also a stag brooch/pendant worn by Queen Margrethe II:

Re: Stag beetles Posted by Beth on September 10, 2019, 2:55 pm, in reply to "Stag beetles" Very interesting Mauriz. George Dobler's work took me out of my comfort zone, prompting me to think about a number of issues. For me, one of his most powerful and evocative works is a 2018 brooch in the beetle series -- seen in the first image on the Gallery Loupe site. https://galleryloupe.com/artists/Georg+Dobler

Re: Stag beetles Posted by mauriz on September 11, 2019, 7:10 am, in reply to "Re: Stag beetles" Previous Message For me, one of his most powerful and evocative works is a 2018 brooch in the beetle series -- seen in the first image on the Gallery Loupe site. https://galleryloupe.com/artists/Georg+Dobler I happened to be in New York at the time of Dobler's recent exhibition at Gallery Loupe and managed a visit – the brooch you mentioned is indeed a very strong work. The gallery paired his work with that of his wife Margit Jäschke, which made for a very interesting display. Jäschke's approach is quite different, and I like her jewellery even more.

Re: Stag beetles Posted by Beth on September 11, 2019, 1:15 pm, in reply to "Re: Stag beetles" Many thanks Mauriz! Again a new artist for me. I have had a pleasant time exploring her work. I would love to see a thread on modern art jewellery. Lucky you to be able to see the exhibition.

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