The techniques described here are based on love, and it takes long time (up to a year or more) to develop a loving relationship with a horse. I don't use mare scent to arouse my horse. I use affection and foreplay. I have gentled my horses to the point that I could safely nuzzle my face into their nostrils or anywhere else. And this kind of intimacy is essential to the procedures described. The animals with which I got my experience were small ponies and minis that I raised and trained. And, with me at least, they were all very gentle. I did not just go out in the field and pickup a good-looking stud. If you try that with the techniques described here you will very likely be injured, even with a mini. The conclusion is, you need a horse of your own.
From my (admittedly limited experience with horses) I would assert that the sexual personalities of horses are hardly less varied than that of humans. And what I do know about loving these animals comes from a lot of actual experience, but with very few horses. Thus the results you get may vary .
Definitions -- Details
Teats: A stallion's teats are at the bottom of the opening of the sheath.
Croup: The part of the horse behind the saddle. Equivalent to a human's lower back.
Point of hock: The rear of the hock, which is that joint where the muscular upper thigh/knee part of a horse's leg ends and the narrow shank or cannon begins.
Fetlock: The joint on the horse's hind leg that corresponds to the human ankle.
Cannon: The long thin straight part of a horses leg that runs from the hock to the fetlock.
First Chakra: An erogenous zone located between the thighs and above, but close to, the scrotum.
Provocative: I use this term to describe assertive actions meant to provoke the horse into some other assertive action, usually mounting. This has a lot to do with body language and context. You'll just have to figure it out yourself.
Provocative slap: If you have properly trained your horse he will be able to distinguish between a slap that is punishment and one that is a light pop, usually with the back of the fingers, meant as the equivalent of a sexy nip.
Notes on the Erogenous Zones
I have been known, when desperate, to excite a bored and temporarily unresponsive horse by chewing on and nipping at his front shoulders, breast, hindquarters and especially the fetlocks. And, no, I haven't been kicked in the mouth for these efforts.
Lengthy patterns of fondling and foreplay that approach and conclude on the 'first chakra' work for some horses that don't warm up any other way.
Scratch, nibble and whisper sweet nothings into those wonderfully expressive ears of his at every opportunity. It really helps.
Getting it on With Your Horse
We assume that your horse is well trained and very gentle. Well trained, by any standard, means (among other things) that the horse will allow you, and hopefully his vet, to handle every part of his body without objection. By gentle we mean that he won't bite, kick, or strike inappropriately.
We are going to cover four reliable ways of bringing your mini stallion to orgasm. This is generally difficult to do (without mare scent) unless your horse has something to climb onto, and ideally this should be you. Thus each procedure involves a different way for him to mount. Even so he may require a good deal of warming up. At least until he has had several orgasms with you. I cover two methods of warm up in sordid detail because the details may be important. These methods are masturbation and fellatio. Which method you use will generally depend on your horse's preference. Once you and your horse have learned to come together, you may find that he needs little or no warm-up to get him in the mood to mount. And getting him to mount you several times, even though he evidences no sexual urge before mounting, should put him in the right frame of mind in short order.
Read your horse to determine that he is in a reasonably good frame of mind. If he is not, wait for another time. Lead your horse to the place (room, pen, stall, etc.) that you have selected to be your regular playspace. Remove his halter and give him a couple of minutes to acclimate to the setting, piss, take a dump, whatever.
Nuzzle and give him affection in your usual way. Give him a little standard brushing on the neck, then back, then rump. It may help to knead his flesh with the free hand. The shoulder is a good place. But he may find that too provocative. Once you have reached his rump with the brush, begin using the brush in long sensuous strokes that start near the croup and end near the point of the hock. He may find it provocative and try to give you a love nip. Or he may find it simply enchanting and relax. He may or may not let down his member in either case.
Some horses simply don't care for it, others love it. If he is fully withdrawn you may get him to drop his member by using one finger to lightly trace the opening cleft at the tip of his prepuce. (Make sure your hands aren't rough any time you are being intimate.) In general, the less erect he is, the more delicate your actions need to be. Thus some horses prefer to be 'started' with the tips of the fingers rather than with the whole hand. Slower rhythmic squeezing is generally preferred when he is extended but not erect. Once he is moderately erect you may find that slowly pulling back on the shaft near the head, so as to stretch tight the skin of the head, is effective. The rapid back-and-forth motions so effective on humans and dogs are usually not appreciated by horses. Once fully erect you may try to bring him to completion as described in the 'How To: Equines'. This is harder to do without mare scent, especially if he can't climb up on something. Horses unable to orgasm on all fours by masturbation alone may sometimes be brought to completion on all fours by orally stimulating the first chakra while you masturbate them.
Blowing Him Up
For the stallion who has never made physical love with a person, fellatio may be the best introduction. But even that may take a number of attempts before he gets the idea. Sit or recline beside him and press your face gently into his flanks nuzzling through his fur. Exhale slowly against his flesh so that he can feel the warmth of your breath. Repeatedly run your hand down the back of a hind leg from croup to point of hock. Sometimes curling the fingers in so that the tips and nails are all that touch him will help arouse him. If he does not drop his member, use your finger as described in masturbation. Then return to stroking his legs. Nuzzle his flank and stroke his legs until he is well extended. If several attempts at this over several days gets no results then try sucking his teats before you begin this procedure.
Using the tips of your (warm) fingers gently lift the member to your lips and kiss and nibble on him. If this causes him to lose interest (it depends on the horse) then start over, and once he is again extended, grasp the shaft and take him strongly in your mouth and squeeze the shaft rhythmically. If he doesn't lose interest, kiss and nibble until he is at high excitement, and then take him strongly. The hand not around the shaft should go between his legs so that you can, with some pressure, stroke downward and massage the first chakra, or if he prefers, more gently massage his balls. This, reaching between his legs is possible only if he spreads them apart for you which they often will. Often he will find this activity exciting for only a limited time and will relax before too much is done. Once he relaxes press your face into his side and shoulder, breathing on him, talking to him, and rhythmically working your hands into his fur and flesh. (Note: I once had a Hackney stallion, too large to proceed as below, but who at this point, would often take me in his mouth and bring me to orgasm. He didn't suck, but worked me with his lips. He was probably one in a million. Don't try this at home.) Note that a small percentage of horses go absolutely wild when you take them by mouth, even the first time.
You may find it appropriate to repeat the procedure in the paragraph above several times. The objective here is to arouse him to the point of his wanting to mount you. If he has never mounted you, it may be necessary for you to get on your hands and knees and crawl under him. Push your head between his front legs and then rise up enough to take his weight on your back. If he is well trained there is only slight danger of a hoof smacked against your head, but you might consider some headgear during his training phase.
Take a break. Scratch him, kiss, share breath, etc. Sharing breath may be especially exciting to him if the smell of him is on your breath. Turn your bare back side to him. stand with your legs slightly apart and beg him to take you. A lot of stallions really like to be begged, and honest to god they can tell when you mean it. Bend over and back into him. Act provocative. Most likely he will mount without extending. But the act of mounting will put him in the mood. His hooves may be around your sides or he may, depending on your relative sizes, want to put them on either side of your neck. I have gotten a good whack to the side of the head by this on two occasions (very painful but no real damage), so be careful or wear head gear until you and he are adept at it. Once mounted he will likely press his teeth hard against your back, but if he is well trained he won't bite. What to do next depends on your mutual desires, his size, and your strength and gender.
You will need to be in good shape to accomplish this. And be sure that the horse does not weigh too much for you. His hooves will be passing in front of your face and over your head while he mounts. So some caution and possibly some head gear might be a good idea until both of you are practiced at this. Kneel in front of your horse and declare your desire for him. Yea, I know they don't understand the words, but they sure do get the tone of voice. Nuzzle and kiss his neck; kiss, nuzzle, and chew on his ears (an important erogenous zone) and whisper sweet nothings to him; etc. Provoke him into mounting you. Put your head between his front legs. Take some of his weight on your shoulders. If he doesn't then mount over your head, then, maintaining this position with one arm (this is part hardest on the back), use your free hand to 'chew' with your fingers down the back of his front leg to the fetlock. If this doesn't get him to mount, take a break. Try this again or something else.
Once he has mounted you over your head, he will be off center with your head to one side or the other of his body. You are in a position to take him in your mouth even if he is not extended by squeezing him out of the sheath. Stallions generally find it exciting to be on top, and taking him thus will generally cause him to extend with obvious pleasure and excitement, often punctuated by a delightful series of nickers and squeals.
As he extends you will be able to adjust to a more upright kneeling position removing most of his weight from your back while he balances himself over your shoulder. Both of your hands will now be free and you will be able to grasp his shaft in one or both hands. His balls by this time should have retracted fully into the abdominal cavity. While grasping the shaft with one hand use the free hand to cup and massage the base of his member in the area of the now empty scrotum. As he becomes more excited the erectile tissue associated with the glans-penis will engorge. Depending on the particulars of your and his physiologies, you may or may not be able to complete the act. This entire procedure may also be accomplished by squatting and bending instead of kneeling. Or in a one legged kneel. Just use which ever is most comfortable for you.
Get a bale of hay or some other appropriate-sized object and place it next to a post. A bale of hay may need to be placed on its thin side to be high enough. Lie on the bale with your legs around the post. (A cross-piece of some sort on the post at a height comfortable to your legs is generally necessary.) This can also be done on a couch quite effectively. Your neck should be at the edge of the bale or seat of the couch, so your head hangs down. The first few times you try this your horse may need some convincing to mount you thus. During this training phase leave his halter on him so you can tug him up to you until your face is pressed provocatively against his breast. (Once he gets the hang of it you won't need to use the halter.) Nip appreciatively at his breast to get him to mount. Or slap his breast lightly but provocatively. As he begins his mount, swoop your hands together between his front legs to protect your face and to spread his legs so that as he comes down, his front legs straddle you. The first few times he may try standing on your stomach so be prepared. I must have done this a thousand times in my life and only once have gotten a hoof in my face for it, and no real damage. Be careful though, you might not be so lucky. Once he is on top, his muzzle will be pressed into or close to your crotch, and his crotch will be in your face. My current horse prefers to mount withdrawn and be sucked to erection. How do I know he prefers this? By the singular and outrageous stream of nickers, squeals and sighs that often accompany his pelvic spasms during the process.
If he is too large for you to complete (you can't open wide enough), then you may want to try masturbating him from this position. To do this, start by helping him press his crotch in your face so that you can suck his scrotum. (If he is ready for this the testicles will be withdrawn.) This drives most horses really wild, and reaching forward and taking the front of his glans-penis in your hand while he thrusts should complete him in short order.
If you are not fairly robust, and if he relaxes on top of you, you might not be able to expand your lungs to breathe. Likely you may be able to prod him to take the weight off and keep it off. If not, prod hard enough to make him dismount and give up. Not much else needs to be said here except that the force and volume of ejaculation and you reclining position may pump you a snoot-full. Pre-rinsing your sinuses with a saline solution spray will help prevent sinus infections that may result if, like me, you do a lot of this.
Anal Intercourse - Front to Back
Generally more than a little scuffling goes on when a horse mounts. If the horse's member is coated with lube, any loose material on the floor will stick to the member so its best to do either form of anal intercourse on a surface which is both clean and provides good traction. Again carpet is ideal.
After anal intercourse it is essential that you clean the horses glans penis thoroughly. Make sure your fingernails are trimmed very close. Wash the whole member with the hypo-allergenic glycerin soap. Once the lubricant is removed from the shaft you will be able to manipulate it. Now the important part, which is cleaning the glans which may have become fouled. Wash and dry your hands and put on a surgical rubber glove (to protect the horse). I use the hypoallergenic glycerin soap for this also, but I know a vet that recommends Phisohex for this and that is probably the best advice. Holding the shaft just behind the head wash the head and then with a *gloved* finger carefully clean around the urethral protrusion. Rinse by *gently* flooding clean warm (*not* hot) water into cleft between the protrusion and the glans.
To do this safely requires the right horse-to-person size relationship. If he is too long and your legs are too short you may be in trouble. I often have to stand on my toes while he goes at it to keep him from going too deep. Don't try either form of anal intercourse described here unless your horse really cares about you, or at least knows enough to be careful when you express pain or discomfort. Because if he doesn't he may very well hurt you. As a warm-up, try standing, facing away from him and masturbating. You might do well to do this once a day for several days or weeks before proceeding down the slippery slope outlined below.
KY just doesn't cut it. I'm not into pain, and I find this painful unless done with J-Lube. It's a veterinarian's hand lubricant. You'll need lots, and thick as syrup. I like to mix up and have ready a half-cup or so at a time. I like to use empty "French's Mustard" squeeze bottles for this. Get it nice and warm and slather yourself up good, and using the handy tip on the bottle squirt some in. You can float the unused portion in a bucket of hot water to keep it warm. Take time to do a few stretching exercises--the traditional cucumber works well for this. It makes entry more fun. Present yourself to your horse. Bend over, and if you have to, beg for it. Again, many stallions really like being begged and some won't turn on to you until you do. Backing into him also helps. It may take a while to get him erect and excited enough to mount you. It depends a lot on the horse and his moods. You will soon learn to judge when he is close to being ready. At that time take a good glob of lube in one hand, and when he does mount, grasp the tip of his member and slide your hand down the shaft. Make sure you coat the tip thickly. The gooey-stringy-slippery lube will coat the member, helping to keep it clean and reducing the likelihood that your horse will get an infection from you. (You did remember to dump, didn't you?) Straighten up substantially, grasp his shaft very firmly and press him into yourself. (If you just let him jab it in with unmoderated thrusts, lube or no lube, it hurts.) If you don't straighten up he's likely to rupture you. The first time my current horse entered me he gave a gasp of pleasure and surprise that I remember as one of the high-points of my life. You may need to reach behind and grasp and squeeze his shaft to bring him to completion. If you want him to work you over repeatedly then don't grab him. Once he has learned that he can complete with you he will likely mount and work you repeatedly until he does.
1. Once you get good and sweaty it may excite him to put his nose in your armpit from behind.
2. While he is standing behind you and thinking about mounting you he will nuzzle, nudge, and nip you from heels to buns. You should tolerate and even encourage this just short of leaving bruises. My horse often gets into a nipping frenzy just before mounting. I let him nip at the skin on my elbows at this time because it takes the abuse substantially better than anywhere else.
3. You must have hold of one of his front legs as you straighten up or he may fall over on his back and be reluctant mount you again. His glans-penis will engorge after he enters you and you will be locked together until he is done. If you let him fall off during this phase you will both experience such *excruciating* pain when the glans pops that it may be years before either of you are willing to try again. So do hold on to that sweet little foot of his. Once he is spent or done, bend forward and let go of the leg. He may want to hang there for a minute or two before he dismounts.
Anal Intercourse -- Face-to-Face
See the section on front to back for relevant preliminaries. It has never happened to me but there is a good chance of getting a hoof in the face with this, so wear head gear at least until the two of you have some facility with this. Also you will need to wear steel-toed boots. And you will need a bale of hay wrapped in a blanket, or something similar in size and shape to that. A raw bale just won't do. The hay will stick to him and then be shoved into you. You *won't* like it, trust me. Put the bale up against something so that it can't be shoved around. I have had some difficulty in convincing horses to try mounting me face to face the first couple of times. You may need to tease him extensively to get your horse to try it.
I generally induce him to mount front-to-back several times without intromission and then lube him up good when he is excited and near ready to mount again. Sit on the bale facing your horse. Provocatively slap at his chest with the back of your hand. As he begins to mount, grab his front legs and help him position them safely. Then free one hand and use it to help him find his way home. You MUST catch the inside of his thighs with your knees because he is very likely about to screw the daylights out of you. If just one of those slams isn't caught by your knees you might get a ruptured colon. Again, once spent, he may want to lie limp on you in indubitable horsy bliss for a minute or two before he dismounts, and by all means if you can breathe with his weight on you, let him do so.
Tips on Keeping a Mini
Read up on it. Talk to people who are keeping horses. Remember, my experience is limited.
I have had best results raising horses from youth. If you have the time to give a foal the companionship it *must* have, then raising an early weaned foal separated from other horses is a good approach. I have had good results by getting a mare and new-born colt foal and raising the foal with the mare until the colt began to exhibit some sexual impulse toward his dam. Even so, spending a good deal of time with the foal every day from word go is essential. And finally I have had good results with a yearling colt raised alone but with a lot of time spent with it every day. I have not gotten good results with mature horses. However, if you can trade in horses, if you can buy, try, and trade-in, then you might find a compatible animal.
I recommend that you develop your relationship with your horse alone from other horses. Once your desired relationship is established then you may reintroduce him to other horses. You are going to be teaching him to be very gentle. If he spends more time with a bunch of rowdy horses than with you, it will be difficult for him to learn. You must, however, be able to spend a good deal of time interacting with your horse virtually every day, two to three hours (at least) while he's in the training period. And he must have an interesting environment. Otherwise he will be bored, unhappy and uncooperative. A non-equine companion animal may or may not be helpful depending on the particulars of horse and companion.
I have found three things to be crucial in developing a relationship between myself and a horse. These are feeding, grooming, and working.
You should be the person that feeds your horse. He should be fed at the same times *every* day. Horses can get so upset by late feeding that they get stress-induced colic. But colic is not the concern here. Horses are not like dogs. If you feed your dog late, he is all the more glad that you have finally seen fit to feed him. If you feed your horse late, he is going to be highly pissed that you have not given him his due. A horse's sense of digestive timing is accurate to about +-15 minutes. You should discipline yourself to feed him at exactly the same times every day. In any case do not vary your feeding time by more 15 minutes except on rare occasions, and never by more than an hour for health reasons. Some people practice a consistently less exact feeding schedule and believe it an advantage in some circumstances. This however contradicts all the professional sources to which I have and have had access.
Spend time grooming your horse at least five days a week. This is the cement that will bond you together.
Develop a working relationship with your horse. Pick some 'normal' activity appropriate to the size and disposition of your animal and train him and yourself to engage in that activity in a cooperative manner. It should be something that you can do four to five times a week. You may need to continue this for some years. Stallions often don't settle down until they are between five and seven years of age. Jogging with your mini is an excellent activity that requires little previous skill on your part. Just teaching him to go, stop, stand, and turn will be adequate. What counts is the quality of interaction during training and engagement in the activity.