I am referring to this jewel.
Since its creation, possibly in 1886 when the crown of Johor was made, it has been used for the formal investiture of the Sultanas and Queens. For the date see https://kemahkotaan.johor.gov.my/alat-istiadat-kebesaran/mahkota-kerajaan-mahkota-permaisuri/?lang=en
It was used for the crowning of Sultana Helen, wife of the Sultan Ibrahim in 1931, as was the extraordinary diamond necklace, which all successive Sultanas/Queens have worn for their coronation.
and other Sultanas.
For example this coronation in 1960.
My interest in tracing a second grand tiara/diadem commenced after I found references (and images) in the UK press to the Sultana Helen wearing a massive, striking tiara with the state symbols of Johor.
Sultana Helen, was formerly Mrs Helen Wilson, a Scottish lady who married Sultan Ibrahim in 1930. They divorced in early 1938.
Yet, the photos didn't show the state coronation diadem.
Sultana Helen at the 1937 coronation of George VI in 1937
At her Court presentation before George V and Queen Mary in 1931
For a modern image of this tiara see https://www.pinterest.com.au/pin/269301252704133385/
This modern photo suggests that the tiara still existed, but I have no indication about when the modern photo was taken.
Yet, there are some significant difference between this photo and those of the earlier Sultanas wearing the tiara, so I have asked myself if it is the same tiara. Perhaps some modification were made. I would like to see some evidence that it is actually the same tiara.
The earliest image of this tiara I could find was on Sultana Zubaidah. Born Cecilia Catherina Lange, she was the daughter of a Dane and a Chinese lady. She married the Sultan Abu Bakar in 1870 and was the mother of Sultan Ibrahim, the husband of Sultana Helen,
Sultana Zubaidah
Some sites I have seen date the photo above to 1900, but it seems to me that there is no substantive evidence to prove that date.
If she died in 1891 as these press reports seem to indicate, then the tiara photo has to date before that.
One of the interesting questions is which jewellery firm might have made the tiara. Was it a Europen firm? Was it a firm somewhere in Malaysia or any other part of Asia?
I suspect that the tiara might have been made by the London based firm of Benson's.
What I think is an official website for the State of Johor states that the crown (and probably consort's diadem) was made by Benson's in 1886. See https://kemahkotaan.johor.gov.my/alat-istiadat-kebesaran/mahkota-kerajaan-mahkota-permaisuri/?lang=en
As early as 1878 the firm of Benson was advertising that they held a warrant from the person who was then called the Maharajah of Johore.
After Sultan Abu Bakar was granted permission by the UK government to call himself Sultan in 1886, the firm started to advertise that it was the crown jeweller to the Sultan.
1886 Ad
Given this, I think there is a high probability that Benson's may have created the grand tiara worn by Sultana Helen at the 1937 coronation and other events -- but, of course, it is not definite proof.
I wish I could find some verification of when the photo of Sultana Zubaidah was taken. Unfortunately, her name rarely appears in the UK press, and I suspect that, even when her husband was in the UK and attended various court events, she did not appear.
If anyone speaks Bahasa Melayu, I would be grateful if any additional information could be supplied.
1